Tag Archives: FR

17 Sep 11: Montreal-du-Gers to Eauze

Route: Montreal-du-Gers to Eauze (16.5km)
We had thunder, lightning and some rain overnight; in fact it was still sprinkling at breakfast, which caused me some anxiety. But it did stop, leaving an overcast and cool day which was most welcome. Mid 60s and gray – yay! Seattle weather! Route gently rolling at first, then followed an old railroad right of way, well overgrown with shade trees and flat, most of the way. The exception was at a profusely but ambiguously marked crossroads, which stumped the 5 of us there at the time. We split 3 ways and I did see everyone later on the right path so it turned out ok. That was the only real excitement of the day. There are so many Normands walking (3 more from le Havre, a new group). There can’t be anyone left at home. Two Austrian women from near Linz. Eauze has good signage at town entry and responsive Tourism Office staff. Also has more church than town (along with La Romieu and Condom, all 3 having been bishoprics in the past). The French version of “all hat and no cattle” I suppose. This is Saturday so a grocery run is necessary to cover the Sunday-Monday drought.

Lodging: HR La Triana. This is a bare-bones but well-located hotel. Restaurant was closed for dinner but others in town were open.

16 Sep 11: Condom to Montreal-du-Gers

Route: Condom to Montreal-du-Gers (17km)
Loveliest part of the day was the first 30 minutes, along the riverbank in the early morning cool. After that we climbed out of the river valley and zigzagged across rolling fields in the sweltering sun. The road is quieter today as the Normandy 8 and the Strasbourg 4 along with the dozen van-touring from Montauban ended their journeys in Condom. Can’t say I fault them: there’s nothing much out here. Morning stop at Larressingle, which is very much worth the small detour. Best preserved medieval walled town in the area. It was a long hot day that became increasingly humid – there is a bit of rain in the weekend forecast. Montreal is a nice small town, several restaurants and bars on or near the square. Church has 4th century mosaics.

Lodging: Le Couloume. My lodging was at a rural gite about 1 km out of town (town was full!). Very hospitable folks. This is a 5th generation family farm. Madame and her mother run it. Madame’s English is good but it is hard work for her. She works with an NGO that has a hospital team in Afghanistan and a school in Sri Lanka – she organizes the benefit concerts in Paris for their operating funds. Her son is a winemaker, not interested in the family farm, which saddens her.

Cuisine: Dinner for me and Madame: fresh chilled tomato soup with garlic, panfried duck hearts (very beefy!) with potatoes fried in duck fat, salad vinagrette, and a fig creme (very like a chilled pudding but from scratch of course). Large old farmhouse – I fear this is a disappearing way of life.

Different faces today- an unemployed Normand, two new Canadians from Ontario. I am learning the pilgrim lessons: stay on the path, take what comes, adjust your pace to match your resources and what is required of you, companionship and hospitality are inexpensive to offer and priceless to receive. Help create community wherever you go.

15 Sep 11: La Romieu to Condom

Route: La Romieu to Condom 16 km.

Route an unremarkable sequence of harvested fields, occasional patches of shady woods, generally downhill but not always. I loathe loose gravel, especially on descents, and I vote for the road crews having to actually march on their roads. Walked with a friend most of the day. Crossed one very old stone bridge, an hour out of Romieu so it must have supported wagon travel over the creek to market there. Or perhaps stone for construction of the Cardinal’s palace. Must date to the 1200’s or so. We rounded a bend to discover Les Normands en tableau in a field of blooming sunflowers – a grand photo session ensued. This is our last day walking with this group and I will miss their friendship and cheerfulness. They have included me in their family – a real Chemin blessing. Midday stop at a Romanesque chapel in excellent repair, complete with timbered wooden roof.

Lodging: CH Les Angelots. Condom is a large town and it took some wandering to find my CH. The cathedral here is very good Gothic, with detailed stonework on the ambulatory screen. The CH is down by the river, only 200m off the GR (if I had actually stayed on it). Nice room with private bath. Wifi let me get all caught up on blog posts. But dinner wasn’t served until 8 pm! And the French men-folk were nattering on. So finally I excused myself at 9:45 for bed.

Cuisine:  Starter was shirred eggs with salad vinagrette; main was pan fried duck breast with pan fried potatoes and haricots vert. Cheese course included bleu and chevre. Dessert was a pain perdu with vanilla ice cream and topped with homemade preserves. Aperitif was Floc from the locality. Lovely meal but late!

Observations Agrique

Of course this is all agricultural country. Sunflowers are a major crop here – for the oil. The ripe flowers with their heavy drooping heads are left to dry brown in the sun before harvest.  I see quite a lot of sorghum which is used as animal fodder. They must ship it elsewhere because I certainly don’t see that many cows about.

The chestnut trees are hard at work; all our US trees were lost to the blight a century ago so we’re not used to seeing these. Beautiful shade trees but messy in the city when the nuts fall. (Wikipedia says the US have developed a blight-resistant strain of American chestnut, using a gene from the Asian variety. So we can look forward to a major reforestation effort in the next few years. These trees were once a quarter of all the eastern American forest, with straight trunks branchless for the first 50 feet, and very tightly grained wood that was highly prized for woodworking.)

I see roses still blooming everywhere, along with more seasonal dahlias and cockscomb.

Summer was late to get started here too, with a terribly wet July that ruined the famous local melon crop.

14 Sep 11: Lectoure to La Romieu

Route: Lectoure to La Romieu  19 km

Underway 0830 (launching takes me 90 minutes regardless of when I start, it seems). First I had to get up the hill to Lectoure, so about 20 km altogether. My targeted distance of 15-20 km daily is proving to be quite enough in this consistent 90 degree heat.

I saw many familiar faces in the peleton today: the Strasbourg 4, the Normandy 8, the Swiss-Am 1. More harvested fields, more heat, some occasional shade. Tiny town at midday had a luxury hotel (200 euros a night!!!!!!!). Met a father and son pair of Kiwis, but they were skipping La Romieu so will be a day ahead of us. Route from the fork is gently but insistently upward, with little shade. There is a huge garden on the outskirts, making La Romieu worth a stop even for non- walkers. A large early Gothic church and abbey cloisters are still standing; built by a Cardinal who was cousin to an early Avignon pope. The frescoes in the sacristy are outstanding but cannot be photographed.

Lodging: Le Couvent. I had a private room in the communal gite, which has become my favorite mode: communal meals but a quiet night’s sleep. The chamber d’hotes are nicer, and often have conversational hosts, but are much more solitary.

Cuisine: The gite reserved a restaurant table for me and Les Normands allowed me to join them; later they collected the Swiss-Am so we had ten at table. Buffet of starters with quiches, charcuterie, and fresh local tomato salad. Main of roast duck breast, spinach soufflé and potato croquettes. Dessert was creme brûlée. We had such conviviality and excellent bilingual conversation! A great evening.

13 Sep 11: Miradoux to Lectoure

Route: Miradoux to Lectoure  15 km

Even before leaving Miradoux, I was hunted down. Word was out on the Chemin grapevine. As I approach the grocery for some lunch supplies, I hear my name called. Turns out to be a Swiss-American woman from Seattle, also walking. The Belgians had put us in touch! This made a wonderful day of conversation to distract from the heat. Breakfast was not served until 8 by the Dutch, so not underway until 0845. Scenery unremarkable; most fields have been harvested and the turned earth lies baking in the sun. Along with us – it must be close to 90 again.

Lodgings: CH La Mouline de Belin is a new CH located in an old mill and operated by two very mice attorneys, she originally from this area. Only two rooms but gorgeously renovated. A lovely stay, very personable and enjoyable conversation. Highly recommended.

Cuisine: Dinner was confit de canard with onions braised in ginger and seasoned with salt and honey, garnished with fresh local figs. Salad of tomatoes and basil from the garden. Cheese course Chantal (from a nearby district, as Gers does not produce cheese or butter), panna cotta with plum compote for dessert. Local vin rouge with the meal and some of M’s walnut aperitif before. Bread homemade! Breakfast included yogurt maison, homemade bread and preserves, and cheese. I made cheese sandwiches for lunch but M was willing to make a picnic.

12 Sep 11: Auvillar to Miradoux

Route: Auvillar to Miradoux  17.3 km

Weather warmed to 90s after last night. Another hilltown midday and a second one for the night.

Lodging: CH Le Bonheur. I arrived at the gite earlier than their intended 3 pm opening – Madame had been turning guests away as they were not ready to receive. I asked if I could just get out of the heat, and she allowed me to rest on the shady terrace (with a panoramic view of the Gers). Huge old townhouse, beautifully renovated, original wood floors. Guests include a German couple from near Bonn, a French couple from Strasbourg, and another French couple. Hosts are Dutch.

Cuisine: Dinner was a chevre crouton and salad, a lovely tagine with quinoa, and a fresh fig tart for dessert.

11 Sep 11: Moissac to Auvillar

Route: Moissac to Auvillar  21 km

Route was along the canal and due to be 17 km. But I stayed on the left bank, missing connection to the big bridge from the right bank over the canal, and covered an extra 3 km before getting everything sorted ( Belgian pilgrims, local fishermen, wayside residents etc – it really is handy knowing a bit of French!). Along the canal is really quite nice and I admit to being very jealous of the canal boats. But that’s another trip. I was moving at the same pace as a group of 8 (7 women and 1 man) from Normandy who had stayed at the same gite in Moissac. Several spoke English and we were old friends by the end of the day. Also saw a group of 5 Dutch; Rom Bates says he’s seen many more Dutch this year and fewer Germans. The Dutch wear orange shirts; it’s a bit like a Clemson game. This is another GD hilltown; although I suspect if I were residing here during the Hundred Years War, I would be grateful for these steep slopes and the protection from bloodshed and famine they afford. At the moment however, I am not grateful.Except, of course, for the view and the breeze.

Lodging: Clos d’Alange  is a new place operated by a young Belgian woman. Her father is German, and her French is scant – English works better. The only problem is her location: nearly 1 km out of town and up the hill. I don’t know how this is even possible: isn’t a hilltop town supposed to be at the top of the hill? She has a little two- bed German style cabin, freestanding, with shower, toilet, sink and kitchenette (sink, 2-burner cooker, microwave, coffeemaker, toaster, 5 cu ft fridge). Exceptionally well stocked German style breakfast with enough left over to make a nice lunch. But I wanted a real meal for dinner, not a German evening picnic. So she drove me down to town for dinner (she picked a restaurant and made a reservation for me) then retrieved me afterwards.

Cuisine: Dinner was simple in an outdoor seating area, but the food was exceptionally well prepared. “Du Tourisme” and they have a pilgrim menu, which I took. Starter was poached eggs (done perfectly, best eggs I’ve had in France yet) on a toasted baguette slice with foie gras sauce; tomato salad on the side. Just magnificent! Main was confit de canard with a side of potatoes fried in duck fat. Scrumptious! Les Normands at the next table had the salad of duck parts (sliced breast, fried gizzards, big slice of foie gras on top of large plate of greens vinagrette) which they raved about. For dessert I had three scoops of ice cream (French scoops are the size of golf balls): rum-raisin, prune-armagnac, and vanilla. I’m not sure whether this is gelato or not, but it is intensely flavored, very consistent in quality from town to town, and rapidly becoming my favorite way to end a meal. I spent a delightful evening getting to know Les Normands better. Everyone thinks I am very brave to attempt Ronceveaux.

I tool some ducky leftovers back for Cibou, rescued by my hosts from an abusive owner who starved and beat her. She is a large white farm dog, maybe Great Pyrenees mix (looks a lot like Hector, for those of you who know Olga and Doug). A very sweet girl, stood up on her hind legs to give me a big hug.

Overcast and in mid 70s today but so chilly tonight I wore my jacket for the first time.

10 Sep 11: Aube Nouvelle to Moissac

Route: Aube Nouvelle to Moissac  16 km

Today’s route is 13 km by road but 18 km by the Chemin. Damn the GR scenery! Today’s opponent was the 90 degree heat. Started in a shady valley, then climbed a ridge with much appreciated breezes for most of the way into Moissac. Passed grape harvest in progress. Also passed kiwifruit growing on the vines, also orchards of espaliered apples. Underway 8:15, reached the gite about 2 pm. I was carrying 3L of water which made a heavy pack but I went through almost all of it.

Lodging: Rom and Aideen Bates at Gite Ultreia remembered me, it was like old home week. Guest from Victoria BC was my roomie. Also one Austrian from outside Vienna, the remainder all French. This was a group of friends from Normandy I was to get to know better over the next few days. I listened to the abbey nuns sing Vespers; they have added some harmony since last year.

Cuisine: Dinner at Ultreia is always memorable for the local fresh vegetables Aideen includes. Fresh melon with proscuttio, tomato and cucumber salad, chicken breast in foil with vegetables julienne and a bit of wine sauce, green beans and boiled potatoes in their skins. Peach Melba for dessert allowing me to tell the story of its origin, which Aideen translated for the French, who loved it.

9 Sep 11: Montlauzan to Aube Nouvelle

Route: Montlauzan to Aube Nouvelle  15.5 km

We enjoyed a beautiful sunrise view from the hilltop with fog filling the valley below as the sun broke on a clear day with mo cloud in the sky. Route was up a “devil’s staircase” (steep clay slope, severely eroded by water, fitted with handhold ropes) to a level shady ridge, then down another “devil’s staircase” the far side. Up 100m to the hilltop for Lauzerte. Very well stocked supermarket (can I take it home with me? It’s full of French food!) offers Spanish gazpacho in liter cartons, like orange juice. Oh my was it good! Cafe du Commerce across from church has free wifi. I eat the tinned tuna salad from Lascabanes to lighten the load. Perhaps it is the heat, or something in the gazpacho, but most likely just heat exhaustion – at any rate I can barely make my way out of the plaza. With 9 km still to go, I decide to call a cab (thank you phrasebook) to Aube Nouvelle. Seeing the terrain with its two ridges, equal in height to the Lauzerte
hilltop, from the car, I know I have made the right decision. I checked in and promptly slept for 3 hours.

Lodging: Aube Nouvelle

Cuisine: Dinner outdoors on the terrace was tasty and convivial. Next table over an American couple from San Francisco asked me to join them. They are fluent in French. We shared many tales of travel adventures. Chef served a fresh gazpacho starter, and I had the roast pork with prunes. Ice cream for dessert! Yay!

Grace: A pilgrim learns this is not an individual effort – this road, this life. We are not in control. We are dependent on others. And we must take the responsibility of asking for help when we need it.

8 Sep 11: Lascabanes to Montlauzan

Route: Lascabanes to Montlauzan via Montcuq   (16 km)

More crushed limestone farm roads rising to the ridge with Montcuq. This town was the next destination for most at Les Mathieux, and last night’s through-hikers will skip it in order to reach Lauzerte tonight. These people are walking 10km more a day than I am. But the faint morning mist finally became heavy enough that I broke out the hat, pack cover, and poncho. And I have yet to figure out how to squat behind a bush and keep everything dry while wearing rain gear. So I did stop. Found earplugs and sunglasses (yup, lost those Raybans yesterday) at the pharmacy. Had an early lunch at a cafe in hopes the rain will pass on over. So I’m grateful for the respite. One of the pilgrim practices is to be grateful for what one has rather than bemoaning what one doesn’t. I must admit this is difficult after a sleepless night and a rainy morning. The splendid Greek salad for lunch was a real help. In the afternoon, passed an enormous (100+acres) horse farm; entry had elaborate ironwork gates. Someone is pouring a ton of money in this place! Later I came across some irregular waymarks that led me back around in a 1km circle. Some joke. The next group, Dutch, helped sort it out. Long dry afternoon.

Lodging: Ancien Presbytere. This gite is in a hilltop town, splendid views over entire area, sunset and sunrise. A room to myself: priceless.

Cuisine: Dinner was not fancy but tasty chicken breast fillets in a fresh chunky tomato sauce, salad and cheese. Local wine from the vineyard down the hill. Slices of pear tart from the patisserie.

Basilage

Why does the chicken cross the road? Because there’s a waymark on the other side. These marks are about 2 inches by 4 inches, and located on telephone or power poles, traffic signs, trees, fenceposts, downspouts, corners of buildings, and occasionally large rocks. Often there is notice of an upcoming turn. Often there is indicated “wrong way/ not this way”. But where? There’s no way to predict. One must always be vigilant. As the two Dutch women today were not, got themselves turned around and walked 10 km back the wrong way before being set straight again by an oncoming pilgrim they had overtaken earlier. And sometimes waymarks hide behind low-hanging chestnut limbs as I discovered myself this morning, but I only lost 5 minutes.

7 Sep 11: Les Mathieux to Lascabanes

Route: Les Mathieux to Lascabanes  16.3 km

Crushed limestone on gently rolling terrain. Gained 80m up to Labastide, early sections steeper and more eroded than later. Underway at 08:25, the last to leave by 15 minutes (I’ll plead first day repacking). Some ridgetop sections with views. A few large old homes. A few fields with sunflowers, ripe with heavy drooping heads and drying on the stalk for harvest.

Lodging: Le Nid des Anges. This gite is in a wing of a Romanesque church. Many gite operators have day jobs, so one has some “installez-vous” arrivals. My roomates tonight include an Italian woman who has been to Seattle and two Frenchwomen who are walking Le Puy to Santiago. They are from near Dijon. At the church there is a Blessing of pilgrims mass at 6pm. He began with washing our feet – how tres apropos! I have the sense of a whole spiritual community traveling together – on the Chemin as analogy to the Road of Life. How nice to finally feel accepted.

Grace: Le Quiet Profound is one of the true deep joys of this part of France.

Cuisine: I have reverted to my “fiber and fish” strategy for lunches: banana, apple or raw carrot; tinned sardines or tuna salad. Mid-day a gite offered picnic tables, self service cold drinks and a young yellow Lab for company. Panache is excellent for washing down fish! For dinner Madame prepared a splendid salad of romaine vinagrette, a starter of baked crouton topped with local chevre, chicken quarters sauted and finished with a pan gravy and steamed quinoa on the side. A baked strawberry crumble was dessert. Altogether quite a delightful meal. Madame seated the English speakers together (me, Italian, two Dutch, bordered by the Québécois).

Nights Rest. After reading for some years on the CSJ forum about the horrors of nights in pilgrim lodgings in Spain, I finally got a real taste. The two women from Dijon both snored, loudly, in shifts. Then fidgeted with ziplock bags and flashlights, intermittently before rising at 5:45 (sunrise is not until 7:30) to perform their morning ablutions and pack. Silly me, I left the earplugs and eyeshade in Paris. A good night’s sleep is priceless; I am not feeling so bad about planning so many private rooms this trip.

6 Sep 11: Paris to Cahors to Les Mathieux

Cahors bridgeRoute: Arrived Cahors by TGV supertrain from Paris about 3:20p and started walking shortly thereafter. I used the alternate route(orange balises) described in Raju’s book which is highly preferred over the 200ft climbing scramble that is the main route. Still in the Quercy here with limestone underfoot and oak trees for shade. Nice village church in Les Mathieux with beautiful polychrome plaster altarpiece filling the entire wall.

Cuisine: I still and forever adore the sandwich shops in the main-line railway stations. Had a toasted tuna baguette for breakfast and a provencal-ham baguette for lunch (over 6 hour train trip). There must be a reason SNCF does not put dining cars on their TGV long-haul trains; maybe they don’t want to compete with their in-station restaurants. Or maybe the French are so accustomed to self-catering that it would not be profitable. Dinner Demi-pension at the gite was carrot-Ginger soup (very nicely seasoned), sausages Quercy with mashed potatoes saffron and a salad of romaine lightly dressed in vinagrette. Creme du chocolate with a crumbled meringue topping and fresh raspberry garnish was dessert. And of course local vin rouge. An excellent meal!

Grace: it felt so good to clear the last tunnel south of Limoges, and be back in the south of France once more. Blue sky, warm sun, puffy clouds – still summer here, where Paris is already starting fall. A very hospitable crowd at the gite: all walkers, all from France save one Québécois. The Frenchwomen are uniformly amazed I am walking alone; they say they would be too afraid. Many are comfortable speaking English with me. Ditto for my hosts, who have a son in Flagstaff and have visited Seattle. One man has a son who is making wine in Napa valley. The conversational ones seem to have strong and positive ties to the US.

Landfall en France

So we spent an extra two hours in our airplane seats during the last minute maintenance work in Dallas. The pilot was able to make up about 30 minutes enroute, most of which we gave back while parked on the CDG Tarmac waiting for a berth to open.

My seatmate for the flight over was from Santa Barbara, who was meeting up with 7 others for a week in the Dordogne, a swing through Provence, and a week in Zurich, doing the house-rental thing. Sounded like fun!

The suburban train in from CDG sold me a ticket using the new Travelex chip-and-PIN card (that part seems to be working well). However the exit turnstile didn’t like my ticket so I had to hop the wicket-quite the feat with a pack and two bags. Fortunately there was helpful advice and an assisting hand standing by. Hotel here will take my bag for storage, somewhat reluctantly. Reluctant on my end also as TSA swiped the damn lock again. Third one I’ve lost to them this year.

Weather here balmy, partly cloudy breezy mid 60’s fallish.

2011: Final Preparations in Progress

It’s almost time to start this year’s walk. The summer has been busy, with the San Francisco Opera Ring cycle in June, a family visit at a Virginia mountain lake in July, and the loss of Sydney (old Doberman) and welcoming Sindee (new Doberman) last week. I have managed more, and longer, training walks this year. In fact I just mailed off completed 500k and a 30-event cards to the Volksmarch HQ. So their program has been very helpful to me in preparing this year.

In addition to the frequency and duration of training walks, I have also been sorting out the footgear system to improve the arch support. After many adjustments I have finally settled on an altered Superfeet insole (heel cup removed) plus a Dr Scholls computer fit orthotics. We will see how this goes! (Post script: This was not a good idea. The store-bought green Superfeet is the best arch support apart from prescription orthotics. Dr Scholls’ product collapsed after a week.)

Notes for Next Year

Route Notes for next year: Daily stages during the first week need to be less than 15 km. And plan one rest day every week. Transport service appears to be available all the way from Le Puy to SJPP. From Moissac onward the route flattens out, and it will be sunny, as I did not see much forest on the train. It is also reportedly less stoney. The path along the Canal du Midi has now been paved for bicycles, so it is not as good for walking. I have not yet hit a market day (need to check Tourism site or Web for each city as the next research project).

Packing Notes for next year: Need to reduce the pack weight. Get the new smaller Kindle, use a smaller size foot balm and foot powder, no body powder, a smaller 38 liter pack, a 2 liter water bladder, no salt/pepper, no mirror, no phrase book, consolidate the paperwork for post-walking activities, substitute a lightweight vest or jacket for the third shirt, substitute sturdier casual shoes if available at the same weight, and only one pen. The pack must include spare rations – with noon, Sunday, and Monday closures, evening meals can be chancy and hitting a lunchtime cafe is incredibly rare. A loaf of bread keeps several days, ditto cheese and raw veggies. Groceries are happy to sell single carrots and apples.

28 Sep 10: Moissac (Rest Day)

Tour: One rest day a week is essential – the feet recover, the body recovers, the spirits recover, the mind gets the opportunity to reflect. This morning I settled into a new room at the gite, a cozy apartment in back with complete kitchen, conversation area with ipholstered seating for 3, a dining table with seating for 3, a spiral staircase, bunk beds for four, and a full shower bath. Lovely, if compact. I took a morning walk up to the heights overlooking town, followed by a post-lunch walk out along the canal to where it overcrosses the river Tarn, then back to town along the banks of the Tarn.

Grace: I wish I could say what makes the French Chemin so peaceful, but perhaps it is better that I cannot analyze it exactly. scenery is only a part; the absence of traffic and road noise, the absence of blaring tv, radio, stereo, advertisements (especially political campaigns); the absence of work, family, and local organization stresses (obligations unmet, promises not kept, expectations not fulfilled) – all contribute. The rhythm of walking itself is addictive (here I am on a rest day, walking). The ability to set a goal, and depending only on your own self to get there, runs headlong into the fact of our mutual dependency on each other. This time has been a gift, an interval for healing the mind and spirt. And I learned, the body heals itself each night if given the opportunity.

27 Sep 10: Cahors to Moissac (by train)

Tour: I had purchased a train ticket from Moissac back to Paris before I left the States, and there were no rail stops on the walking route between Cahors and Moissac, so I decided to end this year’s walk at Cahors and continue by train to Moissac. So I have the morning to explore Cahors, which is a rather large place. There is an extensive old town section that is quite nice, worth a several hours’ stroll. The cathedral is especially noteworthy (both for its architecture and its interior decoration), really not to be missed. Eventhough it is a Monday, the sandwich shops on the main street are open, with a nice assortment on offer. The train station is on the west side of town, north of the western bridge where GR65 exits town. Although no restaurants were open Sunday evening, some are open for Monday lunch. The train station is large; the TGV connection is in Montauban which is 40 minutes away by rail. I ran into an Australian couple on the train. They had walked the Ceile valley route, then rented a houseboat on the Lot for a week as a break from their Chemin walk, with good recommendations.

Lodging: Lodging in Moissac was Gite Ultreia, run by an Irish couple, the Bates, very comfortable and hospitable – and well known among pilgrims. Very highly recommended. I visited the historic abbey church (a dependent of Cluny) and cloister, strolled downtown, had a good Belgian brown beer, attended Vespers at the abbey church with the nuns singing beautifully.

Cuisine: Breakfast at Cahors (and yes I was ready for it!) included homemade multi-grain bread and fromage blanc, a tasty and welcome change of pace. Lunch from sandwich shops downtown across form the Tourism office” a nice salad, a jambon-emmenthaler small sandwich and another, a poulet provencal, ensemble a emporter very tasty. Dinner was demi-pension at the gite. Starter: ripe melon with proscuttio, along with tomato and cucumber. Main: steamed Yukon Gold potatoes, haricots vert and buttered carrots (three bowls of vegetables – a first!), with fresh salmon poached in white wine and tarragon. Dessert: Peach Melba with vanilla ice cream. we all commented on how the French seem to grow many vegetables in the garden but do not serve them at the table (except salad). They must go into the soup. Our table includes one Austrian from Gratz, who has walked from there over the years. He says the trails are not stoney, and villages are frequent (every 2 km).

Packing Notes for next year: Need to reduce the pack weight. Get the new smaller Kindle, use a smaller size foot balm and foot powder, no body powder, a smaller 38 liter pack, a 2 liter water bladder, no salt/pepper, no mirror, no phrase book, consolidate the paperwork for post-walking activities, substitute a lightweight vest or jacket or the third shirt, substitute sturdier casual shoes if available at the same weight, only one pen.

Route Notes for next year: Daily stages during the first week need to be less than 15 km. And plan one rest day every week.

26 Sep 10: Vaylats to Cahors

Route: 24.6 km with 400 ft descent

Tour: Underway at the striking of the 8:00 bell and rolled up to the gite door at 4:15, with about an hour of mid-day halts. It was good walking the first two hours, over an old Roman road as far as La Peche. This is still karst country, with limestone underpinning the thin soil, and scrubby oak forest, occasional sheep, no views, no farms, no towns, no reason for being here except passing through. The hunters were after pheasant though (saw one on the wing, quite large). I know this distance is longer than I am comfortable with, but it is the last walking day, so it does no harm if my feet are still sore tomorrow. We passed several lodging options on the way in, but I expect those work only if there is a Francophone in the party (small places well away from towns). La Peche at midday was the only other viable stop. This entire stretch (Cajarc to Cahors) is utterly pointless on the GR65; I would encourage any pilgrims following to explore other options. There is the towpath route along the Lot, or the variants through the Ceile valley, or via Rocamador, or via Lalabenque. The last hour of walking is brutal; too long and a very steep descent into town. I am very glad for the cheerful companionship of my Quebecois friend, who keeps me going.

Lodging: La Maison des Pelerins

Cuisine: The lodging in Cahors (Maison des Pelerins) is spacious and very clean, but this is Sunday night, and the nearest open eatery is a 30-minute walk one-way. My feet are too sore and I am too exhausted to think twice about this. So I make a meal off the last of the grocery provisions: tinned tuna, a carot, and some Babybels. It is very important to identify eating arrangements when making lodging reservations.

25 Sept 10: Limogne to Vaylats

Route: 15.8 km with 25 ft climb (nearly net flat overall)

Tour: Marie the Belgian routed us past the well preserved, ancient clothes-washing place , and a local man walking his golden Lab took pains to walk with me back to the waymarked trail. I started at 9:15 and arrive 3:00 with a 15 minute lunch, so was making good about 3 kph with the normal rest stops. Scrubby woods and small farm holdings; this is a thinly populated part of the country. Lodging is in a convent guesthouse, two-person room with the same Quebecois – it is really helpful to have a Francophone to carry the language load. I attended the evening Mass at 5:30, there being no office on Sunday, which Saturday evening counts as part of.

Lodging: Monastere des Filles de Jesus

Cuisine: I feared a vegetarian regime but the convent offered a regular demipension menu. The nuns were seated at separate tables from us guests in the same dining room. There was a vegetable soup, mostly carrots. The main was roast pork with potatoes, and the dessert was a stewed plum compote. Plenty of food to go around the family-style table. I wondered what happened to all the leftovers, until I saw six sleek cats loitering outside the kitchen door as I made my way back to my room.

Grace: I can maintain my focus. With quiet, and the absence of media, and the absence of work thoughts, I can concentrate for a change. At least, I can in the mornings, with the rhythm of walking established and the fatigue/hunger thoughts not yet intruding. I like being able to join in Sunday Mass, participating in the community of the faithful. There are ten nuns here, and I interact with two, whose hearts of love are discernable even through the language barrier. This feels very special.

24 Sept 10: Cajarc to Limogne en Quercy

Route: 18 km with 450 ft climb

Tour: I started out rigged for rain, due to the continuous showers, but it promises to fair off and turn cooler midday. Underway at 8:35, and I arrive at St Jean 11:15 after covering 10 km — this is almost 4 kph! My usual rate of progress is 3 kph – mornings really are my best time. The afternoon route is stonier, and harder on the feet. Small farms, old walls, limestone gravel. The woods are scrubby here, with creosoty stuff — the soil is porous here and doesn’t hold water well. After the second midday halt, the black cloud finally caught up with us and it rained until I reached the out skirts of Limogne.

Lodging: At Les Gloriettes, and Madame Marie our host is from Belgium. The house is a huge old affair with a large garden. There is no demi pension but kitchen priviledges are included and the grocery store is only 2 blocks away. My roommate is a Quebec woman I have been leapfrogging all day, so it made for a pleasant evening of chatting with the Quebecois (two men staying there too). Madame Marie is a colorful character. I tell her I have many friends I will send to visit her, and she responds, “Not so many. And only send good people, who are like you. If you send bad people, I will say I am Full already.” She gets group reservations starting many months in advance.

Cuisine: We ate at a good cafe around the corner for dinner. The starter was cream of mussels soup, in a large terrine that would have served two nicely. The main was cassoulet en Quercy (local version of a regional dish) with sausages, lamb, and chicken. Again, served in a large terrine that was way too much food for one person. Both dishes were very rich and filling, so I only managed to dent half the cassoulet. Dessert was sorbet (gelato perhaps) intensely flavored cassis and citron, a real memorable treat.

23 Sep 10: Grealou to Cajarc

Route: 10.8 km with 700 ft descent

Tour: The countryside is much flatter now, the air heavy with humidity from yesterday’s heat, and today’s forecast is rain. The road is gently undulating, some is stoney, much is crushed-gravel farm road. An old dolmen had started to collapse, and was shored up solid with sandbags and fenced off for safety. The views alternated between small pastures and woods of oak and boxwood – the wonderful fragrance of boxwood on a warm day! Pleasant, good for reflection and contemplation, and utterly forgettable. As is the town of Cajarc. Word is that one can reach Cahors in two long days of walking along the banks of the Lot from here, with a bus running periodically to serve as a sag-wagon. Around this town are prominent limestone bluffs, so shear they look very much like castle walls. It is a good thing this was planned as a short day, as the weatherman delivers thunderstorms and downpours all afternoon and evening, with much lightning. I pray for those who are caught out in this storm.

Lodging: HR La Peyrade

Cuisine: A robust German breakfast (yogurt, muesli, cheese, hard boiled eggs) at the gite. Lunch in Cajarc at L’Presidente, managed to get moules frites, one of my favorite dishes from Normandy! Alas, they turned out to be not as tasty as the menu du jour (note to self: it never is). The evening meal (demi-pension at hotel) was this week’s entry in the “worst meal in France” contest: salad, frites, and deep-fried duck confit. I did not think it was possible to do anything to make duck confit taste bad, but this cook managed the job. The accommodations were quite good (clean, spacious, recent construction), location was not bad (3 blocks from town center with a nice view), but the food is not recommendable.

22 Sep 10: Figeac to Grealou

Route: 20.3 km with 500 ft climb

Tour: The day started with a good climb out of town to the ridgetop, about 300 ft in 30 minutes. Then it was walking along paved country byways along the ridgetop. The route entirely to Faycelles is pavement or road shoulder, which is very hard on my feet. I was underway at 8:15 and reached Faycelles 11:00. This is an interesting Gothic church, quite large to be so isolated. But, we are on a hilltop, so perhaps this was the area fortress during the long wars. Figeac is a large place with extensive suburbs, which took an hour to transit (after climbing the ridge!). The light industrial area included a plant for fois gras and other regional specialties; their factory-direct store was hard to pass up! There are fewer walkers today, all French so far (lots of people I met earlier were only going as far as Figeac). The French are quite distressed that I am walking alone “and have no one to talk to you”. But I find peacefulness in walking alone, both quiet and my own pace, that I do not get when walking with companions, whether new friends or old. The countryside views here are bucolic but nothing special. The afternoon walk was more level, with a better quality footpath, ending uphill. With an 81 F afternoon, it was a 3-liter day.

Lodging: Atelier des Volets Bleus (Highly recommended)

Cuisine: Breakfast at the Hotel Pont D’Or was the most robust yet this trip, with yogurt, cold cuts, cold cheeses, hot scrambled eggs (frozen) in addition to the usual French menu. Also hard-boiled eggs that were overcooked and had broken shells. (The French just don’t understand how to do eggs for breakfast.) Lunch at La Forge in Faycelles was the plat du jour – roast pork with sauted peppers and mashed potatoes. Dinner at the gite was home-cooked Swiss rosti potatoes (hash browns) topped with fried eggs sunnyside up, along with a green salad and a karottensalat (pickled beets, grated carrots, diced tomatoes and cucumber). The pilgrims cooked for each other from supplies provided in the kitchen.

Grace: This tiny gite created a gem of community. The owner is Swiss, while the guests were a German, me, another Swiss, and an Austrian, all women. Conversation ganz auf Deustch with occasional exceptions for my sake. I could follow about half the discussion (topic and sentiment but not the details). I am finding it is so nice to be able to discuss the day’s adventures with other walkers who have shared similar. Lodging by myself at the hotels offers more privacy, and more conveniences, but much less companionship. There are many expats in this area; two Brit ladies stopped by to chat with Madame; one had lived here 18 years. Madame has lived here 27 years, with the gite open for 7 years. This is a depopulated area, so property is much cheaper (especially cheaper than the UK). Madame is an artist, so the gite is done in wonderful colors. The feel of the place is wonderful, family, accepting, home. A real gem, very highly recommended, especially for women and any German-speakers. There was much discussion at the table of the pilgrim experience along other parts of the Camino. In Germany, one can start as least as far north as Cologne; the trails are in excellent condition but uncrowded (our Cologne pilgrim started from home and walked 400 km before seeing her first pilgrim; she took the route through Cluny to Le Puy). In Spain there is a huge mix of nationalities, and hardly anyone (except the Spanish) speak Spanish. In Norway, one must carry complete sleeping gear and food, not much different from the Appalachian Trail. In the UK, walking paths are beautiful, especially in Cornwall, but lodgings are B&B rather than hostels, so it is expensive.

21 Sep 10: Livenhac le Haut to Figeac

Route: 25.3 km

Tour: The route plan for the day was even longer than yesterday, and with the feet still hurting from all the pavement, I punted. I even managed to make the transport reservations (with Factage) myself. I spent a peaceful day under a shade tree at the gite. Transport arrived shortly after 2:00 and by 3:00 I was at my hotel in Figeac. Transport for bags and people is available all the way from Le Puy to the Spanish border, by various companies.

Lodging: Grand Hotel du Pont D’Or

20 Sep 10: Conques to Livenhac le Haut

Route: 21 km with 1080 ft climb and a 1380 ft descent

Tour: The climb up out of Conques was, well, legendary. The very first step was chest-high and I thought I was a goner. But the Chapel of Saint Roch made a halfway stop, and after an hour total we were up out of the gorge, standing on the ridge, with nice views all around. I was walking with the Canadians, who had concocted a variant-variant-shortcut scheme as follows: Follow the signs to Noilhac (variant marked) until the T-intersection at road D580, where Noilhac markings go left and you can see the steeple of St Roch chapel (2nd one today) on the right. Turn right and proceed to the chapel, where variant waymarks resume. COntinue to follow D580 through Agnac, now following other variant as marked in MMD to (3rd for the day) Chapel of St Roch, where the main GR65 markings resume, and then it’s another hour downhill into Livenhac. This route saves 5 km, and took us from 7:45 to 4:30 with the usual stops. There is water in Agnac (marked in MMD) and in Beausoiles (not marked in MMD – behind the school). Apart from the climb out of Conques and the descent into Livenhac, the entire route is pavement or road shoulder walking, very hard on the feet. We were all exhausted. I recommend a shorter day! The Canadians lodged at La Magnanerie, slept in the tower, and enjoyed it.

Lodging: I was at the Gite Communal, in a 3-bed room with a German couple. They had been entangled in the rail strike on Sept 7 on their way into Le Puy, and were afraid of similar difficulties on their way out. Eventhough they regularly do marathons, they had never encountered a day such as this, they said. The trail routes in Germany are much better maintained by their report; they live near Frankfurt and had walked they whole way from there over the course of several years, walking a few weeks each year.

Cuisine: Fortunately the Canadians’ gite had reminded that everything in Livenhac closes on Monday, the day of our arrival. So we stocked up on picnic supplies on Sunday afternoon in Conques. We had to continually be careful of meal and supply planning in anticipation of the Sunday and Monday closings.

19 Sep 10: Conques (Rest Day)

Tour: I chatted at breakfast with other guests at the auberge, a Vietnamese couple living in Paris. She was born in 1952 while her parents were studying at university in France. The family returned to Saigon in 1960, and she attended the French Lysee. In 1970 she left Saigon to attend univeristy in Paris, and her parents left Saigon in 1975. She has been back since, and is saddened by the modernization and materialism she sees there now. It was common to hear life stories like this from complete strangers on the pilgrimage.

I headed up the hill to the abbey church, hoping for a Sunday morning service. Two monks (a tenor and an organist) were rehearsing. I visited the Treasure (museum of the gold and silver reliqueries, including the famed figure of Saint Foy), then it was time for Sunday Mass… when in a pilgrim town, do as the pilgrims do. Afterwards, I found my bilingual Canadian friends, in exactly the same sidewalk cafe chairs they were occupying 24 hours ago, and with their help arranged all the remaining lodging for the trip. It was a beautiful fall afternoon for a promenade about town, with a quiet bench for reading. I managed to make Vespers in time to join the parishoners in the chancel to sing with the monks, who did a lovely 4-part a capella harmony for the canticle. My liturgical French is on par with my liturgical German: I get about half the nouns and none of the verbs.

Cuisine: A light supper afterwards included truffude, a main dish casserole that is essentially scalloped potatoes reinforced with Cantal (cheddar-like) cheese, ham, and chicken gizzards.

18 Sep 10: Senergues to Conques

Route: 9.7 km with 150 ft climb and 700 ft descent

Tour: I am out the door at 0900. We all manage to get underway on foot, even the Belgian with the sore knee. There is a steep climb up out of Senergues to the ridge top, then along the road shoulder and undulating between pastures, with nice views on either side: a very pleasant walk. I make the morning stop at 1100 at Saint Marcel. The descent to the edge of Conques was steep and a bit stoney, but not as bad as Rochgude several days ago. However, the descent within the town was stunning (and unexpected): 1500 ft from top of town to bottom. And my lodging is at the bottom, of course. It is an old, dingey guest house but nicely situated by the river and the old bridge. I decided an afternoon of enforced rest (and laundry of course) was in order. This town feels a bit like Gatlinburg – touristy in the middle of peace and quiet. Guess it’s been like that for 1200 years.

Lodging: Auberge du Pont Romain

Cuisine: Madame offered honey at breakfast, along with the usual assortment of preserves. With all the fruit trees needing pollination, the honey is a serendipitous by-product. Just at the top of Conques is a tiny (2 m by 2 m) grocery, the only one in town and closing for the season this week. I stopped for lunch at a well-advertised terrace restaurant, Le Charlemagne, and had my first bad meal in France. The “andouilette” was a grilled sausage-like affair, assembled from tripe. Imagine boiled rubber bands in a sausage casing: absolutely inedible. The frites and cidre were ok though. I thought my lodging was demi-pension, but Madame thought otherwise when I came down to dinner. So I had to hike back up the hill to the center of town. The first eatery I found was a 3-star hotel-restaurant, Hostellerie de l’Abbye. I was seated solo on a garden overlook, and well-served by a grandmere in her late 70’s (the chef’s mother perhaps), and with her fractured English and my fractured French we had an enjoyable evening. The French are good at letting you know you are doing the wrong thing, even if they’re less clear to indicate what the right thing might be. I was not ordering an appropriate wine, so I let her recommend one (half-bottle selections are always more limited). First course was a huge bed of red oakleaf lettuce vinagrette with thinly sliced cured duck breast and sweet onions. It was a meal in itself and I could have stopped right there. The main course was a piping hot plate of tripou, which looked like chicken breast portions, but was tripe, along with au jus and boiled potatoes. Very tasty! (I followed my when-in-Japan strategy: eat first and ask questions later). Dessert was Tart Tatin, served piping hot, crisp and juicy, with whipped cream on the side. This set me back 50 euros all told but it was a memorable meal!

17 Sep 10: Golinhac to Senergue

Route: 11.2 km with 700 ft descent followed by 350 ft climb

Tour: Underway at 0830 and I am the last to leave (most are out by 0800). There is a gentle roadside descent downhill by many switchbacks. Several times I pass the group of French coffee-drinkers from yesterday, to many mutual smiles. At Espeyrac I make a midday halt. The church here has a beautifully carved bas-relief Stations of the Cross, in 3/4-round, of a style we have seen previously (must date to the mid-19th century). In the parking lot I see the first non-French license plates of the trip, one NL and one L.  The morning fog is finally breaking up, leaving traces of blue sky and filtered sun. I will be glad if the afternoon climb is not too hot. My feet feel much better today, don’t know whether I’ve finally recovered from the 30-km beating, or there have been very few stoney descents, or I’m getting more protein, or what. Maybe it’s just taking me ten days to walk into shape. Shorter days and going at my own pace, with frequent rest pauses, can’t hurt. Ah! To be sitting at the church when the Friday noon bells toll (for 5 minutes straight). The walk this afternoon was along a grassy track, gently but invariably upward to Senergue, which is a hill town. Arrived 1:30 after a half-hour lunch break. Conques would be a theoretical possibility this afternoon, but it is a steep descent and I have just got my feet healthy again, so will be satisfied with this for today. Joy! English speakers at my gite tonight! Two Belgians (from Flanders) and four Canadians (from Thunder Bay).

Lodging: Domaine de Senos. This is a terrific gite, worth spending a week here. It is modern, well designed, and Monsieur parlays anglais. Highly recommended.

Cuisine: After tiring of ham and cheese sandwiches, I have acquired a taste for tinned “salad Parisienne au thon” for lunch: tuna and mixed vegetables including diced potatoes in a mustard/lemon vinagrette. This is a really tasty way to get my protein. Demi-pension at the gite (there is a restaurant and a grocery in town). The gite has a bar, for aperitifs, wine or beer on the terrace before dinner. How very civilized! The starter was a patty of pork, chard and other vegetables, ground finely and bound with bread crumbs and a bechamel sauce, then pan-browned. This was served family style on a platter with salad greens and sliced hard-boiled eggs vinagrette. The main course was broiled sausage (one large single link per person, coarse ground and well seasoned), served with white rice and stewed tomatoes on the side. Dessert is Isle Flotant (Floating Island), chilled and light. The gite walls have many framed pictures of donkeys; Madame used to own 17 of them! I can tell she misses them.

Grace: I have missed English conversation these past four days. So I was thrilled to hear the Canadians on the terrace this afternoon. Just being able to discuss my experiences of the week is lovely.

16 Sep 10: Estaing to Golinhac

Route: 13.6 km with 1020 ft climb

Tour: The morning begins with a level road-shoulder march along a country byway for the first two hours, following the banks of the Lot through the morning mist. I was underway at 0830, made two 15-minute lunch stops, and arrived Golinhac around 2:30. The morning climb alternated trail and road shoulder up to the plateau. Late in the morning the mist cleared and things warmed up a bit, until low stratus clouds moved in, first giving shade and then threatening precipitation. A group of French walkers adopted me for mid-day coffee. The afternoon walk was through mostly chestnut and oak forest, mostly good track, mostly undulating with some final climb.

Lodging: Pole touristique Bellevue. The lodging tonight is the first real gite d’etape (hikers hostel) I’ve stayed in. Our room sleeps 6, and there are four dorm rooms in this building. The washhouse is downstairs, with laundry sinks and racks outside. Sure hope the rain holds off! There is a younger set here, both staff and guests, with more English being spoken.

Cuisine: The hotel breakfast was the usual menu, plus applesauce, which makes its first appearance on this trip. Dinner is demi-pension with my dorm-mates in assigned seating. The starter is gazpacho, followed by a salad of haricots vert vinagrette (similar to the dish served in Kandahar – I must learn how to make this!) The main was oven-roast chicken quarters with mashed potatoes – the crisp and juicy chicken is a real treat. Dessert is a baked apple in a thin pastry crust, with caramel sauce. An excellent dinner!

Grace: The yearning of every heart is for community and belonging – and today the French came through. I run into the French AA member at lunch, and my dorm-mate from Brittany assists with reservation calls, and the mid-day group invited me along for coffee. It’s nice to be looked out after by strangers – an unearned grace.

15 Sep 10: Saint Come d’Olt to Estaing

Route: 16.4 km with 500 ft climb and 650 ft descent

Tour: This morning I followed some other pilgrims in the fog, inadvertently doing a road-shoulder march along the highway to Espalion, doubtless saving a hill climb and 3 km over following the marked GR65 route. This should have put me ahead of the game, but I wandered around town for an hour (making toilet, bakery, and bank stops in the process) trying to pick up the waymarks again. Alas I missed the UNESCO site church as a consequence. Leaving Espalion, the trail follows the bank of the Lot, then through suburbs up to the pretty Romanesque church at St Pierre of Bessejoules. There was a very steep climb (someone had cut stairsteps into the hillside) followed by a more sensible descent. Then another country church, also closed, but the water fountain worked. The afternoon was filled by a long road march along farm roads and country byways into Estaing, where – miracle of miracles! – the hotel was visible immediately upon crossing the bridge into town. It was very hot today – my little thermometer says 100 F in the sun but that seems to overstate the situation. My feet hurt from the descent pounding, but I’ve started taping them with Kinesioflex and that is really helping. More protein at lunches seems to help too, and I drank 2.3 liters of water today.

Lodging: HR Aux Armes d’Estaing

Cuisine: Madame Rous included some brioche and yogurt with the usual breakfast menu. My bakery stop in Espalion turned up a great cookie – white chocolate with dried crannies – it really hit the spot. Today’s two lunch stops were tinned tuna with tomato and then tinned tuna with lemon; protein is good! Dinner was truly exceptional, demi-pension at the hotel. Starter was a fish terrine on an elaborately composed plate. The main course was a thick slice of roast lamb, juicy and pink, served with a broiled tomato, broiled endive, roast asparagus bouquet, and over-roast potatoes. We had a choice of desserts; I took creme brulee but the gateau and tiramisu were popular with other diners and looked light as air.

14 Sep 10: Saint Chely to Saint Comte d’Olt

Route: 16.5 km with 270 ft climb and 1620 ft descent

Tour: Finally GR 65 merges with GR 6, and following the old road I climb the hillside south of town, giving lovely views back down into the village. Cool and pleasant climbing gently on forest track through birch forest. I’m underway at 0830, make two half-hour stops midday, and arrive town at 3 pm. Halfway up the hillside we are passed by two mountain bikers – going uphill slowly but still faster than we walkers can manage. We pass through two hamlets, the second one has a coffee/tea stop under a shelter, making a very popular stop. We continue undulating along the edge of the plateau, with grand views all around. Of a sudden, the stone underfoot changes from slate to something white – quartz? marble? limestone? We’re now in the drainage of the Lot, which has the Roquefort caves, so perhaps it is limestone. Forest changes to a mix of oak and chestnut. My feet are very tired from all the pounding on the stones with each descent; the climbs are not painful except that I know they mean more descents. The afternoon heats up into the low 80’s and I am grateful for the occasional shady stretch. Today I only took 1 liter in the water bladder, but finished it off plus 600 ml from a bottle-fill at a fountain mid-afternoon (gulped the whole bottle in one go and felt much better immediately). I found the mid-afternoon snack stop, without the blog-advertised crepes. The church here in town has a famous twisted steeple. Very interesting medieval buildings around the church.

Lodging: Although I reached town in good time, the gite (Gite Rouse) directions were inaccurate and impossible to find; I finally had to call the gite and they sent out Monsieur with a car to search for me. It has become my most-hated part of the day: trying to find the gite. Accommodations are pretty good but the location is on the outskirts of town, which means a lengthy walk to get a meal.

Cuisine: Breakfast was the traditional French, except that he had the Belgian froot sirop, current preserves, and cherry preserves – the first time I’ve seen any of those. Lunch today was the tin of smoked herring, which was very good – I’ll have to look for more. The afternoon stop had a “pear tart”, really more a pear-topped yellow cake – tasty and filling but nothing special. No demi-pension here, so I had to go into town to find a restaurant. Killed time until dinner with an aperitif made locally from the Gentiane blooms which grow in wild profusion on the spring hillsides here – I’d been wanting to try some. Dinner itself was a pave veau (2 inch by 2 inch by 6 inch block of veal) browned nicely all around, served with rice and a sauce of local mushrooms. Dessert was a sweet risotto (like a rice pudding) served with a caramel sauce on the side for individual drizzling – a real treat.

13 Sep 10: Nasbinals to Saint Chely d’Aubrac

Route: 30 km (via GR 6 unintentionally) with a 500 ft climb followed by 1600 ft descent

Tour: I left town with the pilgrim horde about 9:15 (the boulangerie was closed on Monday, so I made do with a store-made jambon beurre on cracked wheat from the quick-mart). The weather is very windy as we head for the highest of the daily crests (about 20 knots eventually, 55 F to start), with puffy clouds zipping by. We climb steadily upward – 400 ft for two hours with a grassy track, sharing the pasture with many herds of Aubrac cattle. Miles of stiles! We have to pass through or over or around a stile every time we cross a fence. Maybe a dozen all told. The route makes a short descent into Aubrac, making good 9 km with climb and descent in two hours, a really good pace for me. Morning is really my best time physically, and it’s nice to finally be able to take advantage of that. After Aubrac, I took a wrong turn, following the GR6 instead of the GR65 (the waymarks are the same white-and-red, but my French was not adequate to decipher the warning signs). GR6 was the old CSJ during the Middle Ages and has the corresponding old walls in some places. The early part was a lovely forest walk, shady and out of the darned wind. The route climbed some, picking up an old Roman road and then running through a tangle of cross-country ski routes in the provincial forest. Only occasionally waymarked, so I used the topo map (think of the trouble I would have saved if I’d consulted it earlier!) and compass, kept heading in the general direction of the next town. Finally I came to the edge of the Aubrac plateau, and a stupendous view: over 30 miles around a 270 degrees panorama. Still there was no sign of town, but after quite a road march and asking directions when the opportunity arose, I managed to complete the 1500 ft descent and find the town. It turns out my afternoon was 21 km rather than the intended 8 km – I swear I will pay more attention to the maps in advance!

Lodging: CH Bar le Relais Saint-Jacques (I think – records incomplete)

Cuisine: A magnificent breakfast, the best yet: scratch pound cake, fresh fruit salad, yogurt, sliced ham, toasted baguettes with orange marmalade. At Saint Chely, both Monsieur and Madame are from Belgium. He served a Belgian mixed fruit jam (pear, apple, date) with the cheese plate chevre, very tasty. Dinner was plain home cooking but very tasty and personal service (we only had ten lodgers at the table). Best soup yet – carrot and noodle, with chicken stock I think. (How can anything with real chicken stock be bad??) A garden salad with mustard vinagrette. The main was a broiled tomato stuffed with a meat ball, very nicely seasoned, moist, very tasty. The cheese plate included chevre but no blue, for the first time. A very sweet peach jam for dessert. There was good conversation, mostly French and gestures, with very little English. Monsiuer says the walkers he sees are mostly French, then Germans and Swiss; he sees a fair number of Canadians including Quebecois.

Grace: Saint Chely is a hillside town which I had to cross and climb to check-in my lodgings. (GR6 and GR65 enter town from opposite sides) I must have looked exhausted. Lodgings are in a private home near the GR6 on the east side of town (downhill), while dining is up the hill on the west side of town. Monsieur put me and my pack in his car and drove me downhill to the lodgings. I had a room to myself, a bidet with a chair to soak my feet, and a laundry spinner that made my hand-wash almost bone dry. This town was full up tonight, but the two Swiss women who had lodged with us at Saint Albans were able to find accommodations eventually.

12 Sep 10: Aumont Aubrac to Nasbinals

Route: 12 km by taxi to Quartres Chemin and 16 km walk

Tour: Down to a group of three now, we cross the Aubrac plateau today – this is Big Sky Country. Looks a bit like eastern Montana with a few more trees. The planned itinerary was too long to be successfully walked in a day, given our track record so far, and we have a deposit on the night’s lodging. So we took a taxi the first 12 km, up a 1000 ft grade, leaving us 16 km to walk, and that is enough! The crest for the day is at about 1270 m altitude, with large volcanic (?) boulders named Wolf Rock. We see two groups of hunters, with shotguns and bird dogs. American dogs will come over to greet and make friends, but French dogs, like their masters, are cool and standoffish. We pass through Fineroyals, birthplace of a priest/missionary/author who survived Buchenwald and for 20 years served the Indians of Peru. However the town does not follow his example. At the entry to the town a sign is posted, telling pilgrims to raise our sticks, leave the townspeople alone, and to use the fountain/picnic area on the far side of town. We make a midday coffee stop at Rieutort, which has yurt accommodations, along with a new shower house, but is not listed in Miam Miam Dodo (MMD). They have Panache, which is a shandy (UK) or radler (Deustch) (lemonade and beer), very refreshing (both cans!). We make a rolling descent under blue skies to Nasbinals, arriving early afternoon.

Lodging: Our lodging, Lo d’Ici, seems to be run by the local Martha Stewart (it’s very artistically decorated). Highly recommended.

Cuisine: Breakfast at du Barry is plentiful but nothing special. From the boulangerie we pick up jambon et fromage (ham and cheese) sandwiches, which we ate at Rieutort. Dinner at Sentiers du Aubrac (one of the two restaurants open on Sunday night) offered a pilgrim menu, but I took the larger meal with salad, grilled beef, green beans, cheese and a plum clafouti with creme anglais. And a bottle of vin rouge du pays. This was the last dinner with my remaining companions from home, and a celebration was in order.

Grace: We are grateful for taxis – we would never have made it otherwise. About 5pm we started seeing familar faces from last night struggle into town as we snacked by the church. Our lodging tonight is the most luxe so far: sheets, duvets, full bath en suite.

11 Sep 10: Saint Alban to Aumont-Aubrac

Route: 14.5 km with 300 ft climb

Tour: We started at 9:00 after a sandwich stop at the boulangerie, and a fruit stop at the epicerie. The weather is much warmer today, with clear blue skies and contrails. We make gentle climbs and descents across several hills covered with dry pine forest, passing a few small herds of mostly white beef cattle. At midday there is an old church at Estraits. The long dry climb afterwards prompts a picnic stop at the hillcrest, with views all around. Every passing French walker wishes us bon appetit. Not long after, we make a refreshment stop for coffee before continuing to town. We see over two dozen walkers today, mostly retirees – this is many more than we anticipated. September is a popular month for walking in France, as the children have returned to school and no longer need minding by the grandparents. Today many walkers are German-speaking; there are two Swiss women at the breakfast table, and one fellow passes us late in the afternoon making a 30 km/day heading for Santiago in 7 weeks, having left Lake Constance two and a half weeks ago. At our post-walk refreshment stop, we were joined by our roommate from the gite at Monistrol, who was glad to see us again.

Lodging: La Ferme du Barry

Cuisine: Madame our host prepared a breakfast dish, a Lozere Pudding, which was a bread pudding affair, and homemade yogurt and homemade (bread machine) whole grain bread, which was greatly appreciated as we are having difficulty finding protein and fiber. The standard French breakfast offerings are baguette (often sliced and toasted), jams of several sorts, butter, and coffee or tea with hot milk to taste. I’m afraid the French just don’t properly understand breakfast. The boulangerie had a chicken sandwich for a change. A lovely coffee stop at midday offered a bottled artisinal lemonade, not too sweet. Demipension dinner at our lodging, Ferme du Barry, was tasty regional home cooking: a plain vegetable soup, aligot from a huge pot (this is a souped-up mashed potato dish in which cheese is beaten into the potatoes with a wooden paddle) with grilled sausage. Dessert was a bread-pudding with homemade applesauce.

Grace: There is a big Romanesque church, St Ettien, in town, with marvelous modern (a la Mondrian) stained glass windows (of a style we have seen before) with intense colors, chunky squarish shapes, and strong leading that worked very well with the feel of the Romanesque building. Our table mates at dinner included a French AA member walking to Santiago with his wife, and two Dutch women in their early 30’s who were just starting their walk to Figeac (there is a rail connection here so many people use it as a starting point).

10 Sep 10: Chanaleilles to Saint Alban sur Limagnone

Route: 20 km with 500 ft climb then 1000 ft descent

Tour: This was a day of extremes! It was so cold (we wore long underwear and turned up the heat) last night – the temperature was around 40 F – and it is still chilly this morning. The route is much improved, better maintained, with a well-engineered gentle grade as we climbed 500 ft throughout the morning through conifer forest. We see evidence of some logging (using the thinning-out technique) and occasional clearings to splendid views. At the crest, we briefly stopped at the former 12th century Templar hospital. It is very windy (15 knots with higher gusts) all along the pass. On the far side, weather is clearing, sunny, and 20 F warmer (a very welcome change!). After passing two small shrines to St Roch (a fountain and a chapel), we descended all afternoon to Saint Alban. Several times we crossed paths with the group of French we first met at the Sauges gite – they are using Transbaggages to send their luggage on ahead each day, so they are walking with very light packs and can cover more ground comfortably. In the afternoon we are passed by a German tour group (9 walkers and 10 cyclists), who are making Saint Jean Pied de Port (SJPP – at the Spanish border) in 10 days travel. They had a bus with a bike trailer; it acts as a “sag wagon”. It’s nice to exercise my German a bit, chatting with this group as we pass.

Lodging: CH Les Genets

Cuisine: For our last evening together as a pilgrim band of five, we splurged on a wonderful meal at La Petite Maison. We started with two amuse-bouches: a mini terrine of smoked salmon pate with croutons, and a mini tureen of Potage St Germain. We had our choice of starters: fresh asparagus with cured ham and shaved parmesan, or duck foie gras terrine with prunes and gingerbread. There were two choices for main course: lamb and chevre ragout en pappiotte with ratatouile, or poached whole trout with cumin-crusted carrots. The cheese course was fresh cheese (like a coeur de creme) with a fresh berry coulis. Dessert was a choice of crepes flambe or chocolate bombe. We had a bottle of local merlot to wash it all down.

Grace: It was a long, hard day with many painful steps. We are grateful to recall a mantra from our friend Emily, “Trust in goodness, Calm and peaceful, Strong and healthy, Slow and steady.” These words prove to be very helpful during some of the really difficult stretches.

9 Sep 10: Sauges to Chanaleilles

Route: 15 km with 500 ft climb

Tour: We had a steady gentle climb (500 ft) over farm roads and good quality footpaths over sandy soil through conifer forest (looking not unlike the Carolina Sand Hills) in the morning. We are starting to see some sheep and horses in pastures now. The weatherman douses us with passing rain showers periodically throughout the day. We see fortifications from the Hundred Years War in the large towns (ex. tower keep in Sauges) and at high points in the countryside (our lunch spot). It was a long slog today and we are all tired. The countryside is still spectacular, a vivid mix of woods and pasture, as we near the first crest. We spent an hour this morning on logistics (post, grocer, sandwiches) for lunch, so walking did not start until 9:45.

Lodging: Chez Denise

Cuisine: Breakfast included a yogurt-like homemade dish – we were grateful for morning protein. Lunch was ham on buttered baguettes, with Cantal cheese (a French cheese that resembles cheddar). Dinner started with large slices of cured ham, followed by a fresh green salad vinagrette. The main was seethed potatoes and pan-fried pork chops, and the meal concluded with two local cheeses (we are really falling in love with the regional blue cheese) and assorted fresh fruit (the French peel everything).

Grace: The chapel in Chanaleilles dates from the 12th century, and has a lovely wooden carving of Mary with child, similar in style to the figure in Sauges. Our host lost her husband unexpectedly in April, and she is having a hard time carrying on the business single handed.

8 Sep 10: Monistrol D’Allier to Sauges

Route: 12 km with 1050 ft climb net

Tour: The climb out of Monistrol was steep – 430m (1350 ft) elevation gain in the first hour, until we came up out of the Allier gorge. After a lunch break al fresco on the roadside from our miscellaneous pack stores, we continued through mixed conifer/deciduous forest with occasional expansive views of the gorge below and vigorously rolling upland farms. There was a clear view to the east of a windfarm we had passed yesterday. We walk through small hamlets of two-story stone buildings, many with attached three-story stone barns. Everything is built of stone. We see three new construction houses today, all single story with double cinder block walls and red tile roofs. We have seen no recent construction commercial buildings since the train passed through Saint Etienne. There are lots of dairy cattle. We watched one (entire) family drive their herd to the barn for evening milking. Every farm and rural home seems to have a dog, usually a herding breed (mostly Australian shepherds and blue heelers so far), all on guard, none will approach us. We arrived early enough at our lodgings to explore the town of Sauges. The church has two very special wooden statues, one of Mary and Child (c. 12th century) and a Pieta (15th century), both polychrome. The nearby Chapel of the Penitents of Sauges had an enormous (30 ft by 30 ft) carved wooden altarpiece, polychrome and gilt, the equal of any German Baroque. It was made 1805 in Le Puy.

Lodging: La Gite Ferme (Highly recommended)

Cuisine: We passed through several hamlets today, and in Rognac followed signs to a house cafe. We each had a generous slice of wild blueberry tart that was exquisite – perfect, thin crisp crust not too sweet, generous layer of small berries chock full of flavor – again, not too sweet. Divine stuff for an afternoon snack. We’ve intentionally rested and eaten more frequently today, which has significantly helped the fatigue. Dinner at the gite (demi-pension) started with a lentil soup in vegetable broth, followed by a tossed salad with diced chicken livers (a regional dish). The main course was braised beef with buttered potatoes, followed by a cheese platter (some made on the premises, and always eat the blue last). The sweet was a vanilla creme (similar to a soft-set pudding from scratch). For the first time we did not have to wash our own dishes.

7 Sep 10: Montbonnet to Monistrol D’Allier

Route: 13 km with 500 ft descent

Tour: Still rainy this morning, and much cooler, for which we were grateful. The rain gear (hat, poncho, gaiters, pack cover) worked well – and would have worked better if I’d left it in place (breaks in the weather suckered us in). There was a small climb followed by much descent, over very stoney paths well-eroded by water runoff. We stopped for lunch at Saint Privat D’Allier (many itineraries reach this point their first night), then continued with another climb and a hellacious steep descent over a stoney, eroded, slick-with-rain trail. We stopped briefly at the 12th century chapel in Rochegude. Then we tackled the final 5 km down into the steep river gorge of the Allier.

Lodging: Gite La Tsabone, where we did the bed-bug drill again.

Cuisine: Lunch was superb and afforded a two hour rest break in the bargain. This is pate country, and the starter was a fresh duck pate with a small green salad and cornichons on the side. Main was a luxurious beef daub (stew) with spaghetti tossed in garlic butter. Dessert was the most chocolatey chocolate mousse I’ve ever had, followed by cheese and coffee. Dinner was tasty at the gite demi-pension. The starter was a lentil and carrot soup. Main was cabbage stuffed with pork and greens, baked potato on the side. Dessert was a mirabelle (yellow plum) tart.

Grace: The storm which had been dogging us most of the day intensified after we reached our lodging. There was much lightning and heavy rain as the squall line moved through. We Northwesterners are not accustomed to such violent and dramatic weather! Despite periodic heavy rain and a steep trail in terrible condition, we have no injuries and are very grateful. We must have seen twenty other pilgrims today, similar to yesterday. These are much larger crowds than we were anticipating. The planned itinerary for distance and elevation each day seems to be about right for our physical condition and equipment.

6 Sep 10: Le Puy to Montbonnet

Route: 15 km with 1440 ft climb

Tour: I attended Morning Mass for pilgrims at the Le Puy cathedral, which was a very interesting structure. More than 40 attended, about 75 per cent French. There were 6 Quebecois, 2 Norwegians, 2 Swiss, 1 German, 1 Brazilian, and us Americans. After collecting our packs we set out – finally! There is a steep (750 ft in first hour) ascent coming out of Le Puy on 80 degree day. We took our lunch break in a churchyard at the town square, where we refilled water (total 2 liters for day’s walk, I was too thrifty in the morning and suffered). My pack feels heavy, but I know first days are always hard for me, I’m still jet lagged and I never did well with heat. The road was mostly dirt farm roads, some section terribly stoney (rocks ranging from hens egg to softball size). Soil here is volcanic, rich and black. Roads topped with crushed pumice, dark red. Fields were mostly pasture or sileage (hay, corn, clover). Farm buildings uniformly field stone quite old, recently repointed, with red tile roofs and stained wood frame windows with external shutters. We stop at a little 12th century chapel outside Montbonnet, then make our way to the gite.

Lodging: Gite L’Escole, which is in an old stone barn, renovated. First time for the soon-to-be-familiar bed bug prophylaxis drill (leave your packs in the foyer and carry inside the stuff you’ll need for the night), which was very aggravating given our fatigue. Other guests all French save one German woman who was an English teacher.

Cuisine: Demi-pension accommodation includes dinner and breakfast. Dinner began with a lovely tossed salad (greens from the garden, tomatoes, simple vinagrette dressing). The main course was a penne pasta with fresh vegetables and sliced pork roast (French pigs are almost as lean as ours, I wish there was a bit more fat for flavor). Dessert was a cheese platter followed by fresh fruit. The French folks at the table showed us the proper way to serve ourselves cheese: slice it in such a way that everyone gets a bit of the rind. Tonight’s assortment included one of the local Auvergne bleu cheeses, which I acquired a real taste for over the course of the trip. In our room, the German woman was complaining about French bread – that it has no taste. After a few weeks of it, I understood her point. (Note: Central Market carries Auvergne bleu.)

Grace: We were so grateful to finally be on our journey, and to have arrived and settled into our lodgings before the thunderstorm (which had been threatening all afternoon) broke.  There was much lightning, and pelting rain with wind, all night. We felt very snug and slept like logs.

Pre-pilgrimage: 4-5 Sep 10

Tour: People say that travel, especially international travel, is no longer as fun as it used to be. Our flight was 45 minutes late leaving Seattle (the crew needed rest, at least that’s a known factor) but only 10 minutes late arriving O’Hare. In Seattle while we waited, the land-side crew was very cheerful. My waiting lobby seatmate recommended the Berghoff in Chicago – they have O’Hare location. So upon arriving O’Hare, I immediately sought out the Berghoff, an old-Deutsch establishment, and they offered a Cuban sandwich I figured would not be on offer in France. This being a very popular and crowded place, I had to share a table. My table mates included a couple from near Gothenburg Sweden, going to Vancouver, and another couple from St George Utah, heading to Tuscany. The flight on to Paris was briefly bumpy as we crossed the remains of Hurricane Earl, but we arrived CDG 45 minutes early, deboarded promptly, and immigration line was non-existent. Light rail link to building with train station went quickly. The remainder of the day was a succession of wait, train, wait, train. The train from Saint Etienne to Le Puy was exceptionally scenic, winding through steep little mountain valleys (as steep as western Pennsylvania) with so many tunnels I lost count. Frequent open breaks for spectacular views across the river valley. Hints of early fall on this crystal-blue day; trees still officially green but some yellow-green and others rust-green. Actual fall would be spectacular here.

Cuisine: French railway stations have a ubiquitous sandwich stand. They use butter rather than mayonnaise, so they don’t require (as much) refrigeration. The ham sandwich was very tasty with brie. The tuna sandwich (it was a long ride) had a “provencal salsa” with fresh tomatoes and garlic — the finest tuna sandwich ever! Dinner was included with our lodging, and unremarkable, excepting the dessert. Ice cream was on offer, in twelve flavors (we could pick two). I had lime and verveine, a local herb liquor distilled from verbena (after the fashion of Chartreuse etc.). Such intense flavor! The pistachio had discernable grit of ground pistachios.

Grace: After travelling so far and so long, it was an unexpected pleasure to be met at the station by my travelling companions (who had arrived in Le Puy the previous day, smart folks). The Confraternity of Saint James (CSJ) is the UK pilgrim association and has the de facto all English-speakers pilgrim forum. After several attempts we succeeded in linking up with a CSJ forum member from New Zealand, who was just finishing the walk from Geneva to Le Puy, along with a friend from Germany. We very much enjoyed meeting them, hearing their stories, pilgrimage wisdom, and future travel plans.