15 May 2024: Kamakura

Today we have an all-day excursion to Kamakura, about an hour away by train. The nice thing about trains, as opposed to subways, is that one gets a good look at the countryside. Plus, we were seated in the “Green Car” (first class) so the seats were snooze-worthy.

Kamakura is a smaller, lovely old town situated on a bay just west of Tokyo Bay, and ringed by mountains. This made it a natural fortress for the first Shogun who set up shop here. To seek divine favor on his new project, he built a shrine. To show how important and sacred this place was, he set the shrine at the end of a long avenue coming up from the shore, and punctuated by Torii gates, showing increasing levels of purification.

Torii gate, Kamakura

First built over 800 years ago, this shrine is regularly renovated so it is in remarkable condition.

After performing the purification ritual, we learned how to say Shinto prayers.

Then we headed up o the main building. While we were trying to gather courage for all the step ahead, we noticed something odd: no one was climbing the steps — they were all waiting at the bottom. So we had to wait too. What was going on? It must be something special— the shrine maidens were formed up at the top of the stairs, looking like sideboys. Then a guard in police uniform appeared, and another. Finally we see the procession, lead by the guards to clear the way.

Shinto procession, Kamakura

They are wearing their full and very colorful Shinto vestments, including the wooden sandals. We know about the sandals because we can hear them! Trying to walk a straight line on level ground in those is hard enough, but trying to descend stone steps? And keeping in step? It boggles the mind. (Unfortunately we never found out the reason for this procession, but it was quite a show.)

The details of the roof ornamentation were impressive.

Shrine roof detail, Kamakura

Then we were off to our next stop, the Daibutsu or Big Buddha.

Daibutsu, Kamakura

On this warm, humid day it was time for refreshments — a local sweet and chilled green tea.

Then we headed to our last temple of the day, Hase-dera. This figure, a ten-foot tall gilded standing Buddha, was indoors so unfortunately no photography allowed. But the surrounding building gives you some idea of the magnificence of the place.

Near the entrance to the grounds was a wonderful Japanese garden, where the iris were already blooming.

14 May 2024: Tokyo

Today dawned clear, bright and sunny, just a glorious spring day. Our first adventure is at a bonsai garden, where one of the apprentices is our guide.

There are eight apprentices from all over the world; our guide was from Puerto Rico, and we met others from Italy and Poland. The Master is trying to ensure the art form will carry on worldwide.

The Master’s favorite

Bonsai used in interior decor

The book had the most remarkable photographs, so I needed a copy.

The Master signed his book

Then we headed to lunch and the National Museum, which was much improved since my visit in 1986. The artifacts were thoughtfully selected, and full English descriptions were attached. Wonderful pieces — but still overwhelming.

Then onward to the East Garden of the Imperial Palace.

Palace Moat

East Garden

Finally, after a short rest, we went to dinner at a Robata-yaki restaurant, where they grill an assortment of dishes right in front of us. It was a wonderful meal! Here, let me share it with you.

Sashimi appetizer

Followed by

Pork-stuffed inari

Taro root

Grilled sea bream

Wagyu beef

And of course sake; we drank four different kinds.

Lodging: Tokyu Stay Shinjuku

13 May 2024: Tokyo

First a few words about our hotel. This is a typical OAT place, which I describe as a 3-star hotel in a 5-star location. But it has some interesting features. For one thing, the room has a washer-dryer. Yes! No hand washing for a few days! And the breakfast buffet has a dozen different dishes, most of which change daily. Very tasty dishes too, I might add.

It is pouring cats and dogs today, as we set off by several subway connections.

Slightly damp subway riders

We spend several hours in the Tsukiji fish market, which is a mob scene of (very damp) food stalls: some to eat on the spot, others to take home.

So of course we needed lunch, and what else would one have at a fish market?

The rain started letting up a bit, so we strolled around Yanaka, an interesting district of older buildings not damaged by the wartime fire bombing.

Old fire break, Yanaka

Temple wall, Yanaka

The rain finally stopped for our walk to dinner together.

Lodging: Tokyu Stay Shinjuku

12 May 2024: Transit to Tokyo

This is a good day to leave: a low-hanging mass of yellow-tinged clouds covers all of Hong Kong, obscuring all views. After a limo ride at breakneck speed through town (no tractate 6am Sunday morning), I’m dropped at the airport.

The place is huge. The arrival hall has a high arched ceiling, reminiscent of Dulles but four times the size. There are lots of travelers, but things seem reasonably well organized and soon I am through security. The gate (this place has over 200 gates) is a train ride away.

Hong Kong Express seems to be the Southwest Airlines of Asia: budget carriers flying full. At the boarding gate there was a sign I’ve never seen in an airport, ever. “No outside food or drink allowed” it said, just like movie theaters. But this is a 4.5 hour flight, they’re not providing lunch, and I’ve just bought a sandwich from Starbucks and refilled my water bottle.

Turns out, they’ll sell you coffee, tea, soda, snacks or lunch. The attendants were running up and down the aisle, waving menu cards. No one near me bought anything.

After quite a rough ride most of the way, we landed at Narita, built 40 years ago and showing its age. Arrival clearances took at least 45 minutes, longest delays I’ve experienced in my travels. But our guide later said that was fast by Narita standards — sometimes it takes five hours! This is just mind-boggling.

The OAT transfer went smoothly though, and I met the other solo woman on this leg of the trip, a friendly and adventurous sort.

We arrived at the hotel, met our guide and the other travelers, and got settled in. Another first: the room has a washer-dryer! How convenient — just what a traveler needs.

After a short walk around the neighborhood to orient us, we decided the ramen shop next the hotel would be just right after a long travel day.

Lodging: Tokyu Stay Shinjuku

11 May 2024: Central Hong Kong

Still stiff from yesterday’s many kilometers, I took the Metro over to the island of Hong Kong. They have a digital transit card here, called Octopus. Truly a handy thing, lives on your smartphone so you just wave your phone at the turnstile without having to keep track of yet another card. NB: the Tourist version is a separate but similarly named app (Octopus for Tourists) and the top-ups are made through the app rather than directly via the Wallet. (Do not ask me how I learned this.)

Anyhow, there I am in Central, of a warm and very humid Saturday morning. Remember when I said every square meter was either high rise or pavement? Yeah, even moreso here.

Skyscrapers and walkways

To solve the problem there are now a huge web of pedestrian raised walkways, overpasses, tunnels, concourses etc, none of which are shown on the maps (I have three). And this is a good thing, because the streets (four lanes abreast) move at freeway speeds. With no street level pedestrian crossings. Quite intimidating, actually.

I’m following the walking tour route from one of the guidebooks. Passing the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, I decided the lobby needed investigation. Purely for research, mind you. Comparison to the Peninsula lobby yesterday if nothing else. Oh my. All done up in black and gold, faux marbling on all (I do mean all) the walls, chamber music, extremely comfortable chairs, and … scent! Roses! I must admit my research went on for quite awhile.

Finally I managed to wrench myself away from this seduction and continued on my way, uphill, to the Victoria Peak tram station. I’d taken this on my first trip here, back in 1983. I had completely forgotten how incredibly steep this funicular runs, but I remembered the views.

Victoria Harbor

And took the tram back down of course, although it is possible to hike it. The HK government takes their slopes seriously- they’re numbered! So they can track their condition and maintenance I suppose.

A few blocks from the tram, at 38 Stanley, was my true goal for the day: Yat Lok. The late, great Anthony Bourdain waxed poetic about the roast goose at this tiny, crowded joint in the heart of Hong Kong.

Yat Lok

Those things that look like flowers up on the wall? Those are Michelin stars. Six of them! This is Michelin-starred roast goose! Worth the effort.

There’s a crowd queuing outside of course, as I’m arriving right at noon. But after only a few minutes (joys of traveling solo), I’m summoned inside along with another young woman and directed to small stools at a table for four; the other two stools are occupied by another couple just finishing their meal. We are crammed in cheek by jowl. Fortunately the menu is bilingual even if the staff isn’t, much. There are other options but of course I order the goose.

Roast goose and sides

Delicious! Crisp skin, deeply flavorful meat, and quite a few bones. Well worth the hype.

After the canonical afternoon break, I took the Star Ferry over and back. All the great cities of the world are port cities, and the best way to see a port city is from the water. Despite all the modern construction, Hong Kong remains the grand dame of Asia.

At twilight

At night

Lodging: The CityView Hotel, Kowloon

10 May 2024: Kowloon

Weather forecast for today is quite windy, so I postponed the Star Ferry boat trip until tomorrow. Today is Kowloon day.

So we know I don’t go traveling to eat the food I can get or make at home, right? That means I’m not interested in the bacon, eggs, and hash browns on the hotel breakfast buffet. Nope. I head straight for the soup bar! The noodle soup with pork was very tasty. But the congee was disappointing- lacked flavor and salt.

From the hotel in Yah Ma Tei, I walked north on Nathan Road. So many buses! Until I realized I wasn’t seeing anything but buses, so maybe this main drag has been converted to a busway. Lots of locals enjoying their breakfasts. Long lines at the ATMs (very odd).

The Ladies Market was still setting up, so I kept on northward and stumbled across the Fa Yuen Street Market instead.

Very fresh (still wiggling) seafood on Ground Floor.

Wonderful green veg and fruit on 1F.

Continuing north through Mong Kok neighborhood, there’s Flower Market Street. In the old days, Europe did this too: vendors of like on the same street. (Check out the street names in City of London, next time you’re there.) So Hong Kong has (at least) four solid blocks of: cut flowers, flower bouquets (Mother’s Day is just around the corner), potted plants, bonsai starts, you name it. If it’s green and there’s dirt involved you’ll find it here.

At the end of that street is the Bird Garden. Hong Kong is famous for its cages of pet songbirds, and — you guessed it— you can find birds, bird cages, bird cage covers, bird seed …. The odd thing was, there were more birds outside than in cages, and they were all chirping happily away.

Then I headed northwest into Sham Shui Po neighborhood (for those of you map lovers) (note: this was off the edge of my city map, a fact important later) to reach Tim Ho Wan, a Michelin-starred dim sum restaurant. After a brief wait (joys of traveling solo), I was seated. The procedure here is to tick off your order on the menu sheet, hand it in, and hope for the best.

Tim Ho Wan menu

(Some of) dim sum lunch

I ordered three dishes, trying to get a variety without overstuffing: a steamed shrimp dumpling (missing from photo), a steamed beef and veg meatball, and a deep fried pork and shrimp dumpling, with cold-brewed peach oolong tea. All for about US$15. Very tasty!

I got lost on the way back (since I was off map and guessing), wandered through the sheet metal products street, the masonry products street, and the electrical products street on my way back to the hotel.

Lighting Shop, Shanghai Street Kowloon

After the canonical midday rest, I set out for the Hong Kong Museum of History, which was a top recommendation from Lonely Planet. What!A! Disappointment! First, the entrance is well-hidden and not signed (as in, they missed a half-dozen doors to hang a “Museum Entrance 200m ->” sign. Then, the only exhibit was a propaganda piece tying HK history to the pre-historic Chinese. Good thing the admission was free. Oh, and the place was so beset with noisy schoolchildren that they had docents posted every 50ft with signs “Please keep your voices down”. In short, not a good experience.

So in compensation I treated myself to a gin & tonic before afores in the Peninsula lobby.

Afternoon tea at the Pen

… which constitutes dinner, and I couldn’t even finish it. My plans had not included Tea at the Pen, since I’ll be in London in December. But after the labors of the day (~16km) a reward seemed appropriate.

Lodging: The CityView Hotel, Kowloon

09 May 2024: Transit

Little did I know, when I added the Hong Kong stopover to this trip, that I was trading an 8 hour flight for 2 hours plus a 4 hour layover plus a 14 hour flight! Fortunately I was able to upgrade the seat to Economy Premium, so it was tolerable (highly recommended!!). Anyhow, United has really upped their game of late; everything went quite well.

Since I had to overnight at the Seattle airport beforehand (due to ferry schedules), I had the chance to meet other travelers, mostly toing or froing from Alaska cruises (yes, this early… brrr!).

In days of yore I used to fly out of SFO quite often, but they’ve done tons of construction since, adding at least three new concourses. Quite the busy place, but well-appointed with food service, toilets, and the occasional people-mover (a type of flat escalator). Fortunately I did not have to clear security again when I changed to the adjacent international concourse.

We arrived at the new (I say that, built around 2000, but anything since my last visit 30 years ago qualified) humongous airport a little early; immigration was well organized and less than 15 minutes, bags were already coming out, customs was Euro-style self-declare-minimum. ATM right at the exit, and the Limo service was right where OAT had predicted. So it was a very smooth transfer, all told. Lots of hoofing, though (did I mention how big this place was?).

Night had fallen by the time I was riding into town; all the high-rise apartment blocks were lighted up; so was the new suspension bridge (it must be a pretty sight in daytime). So many freeways! I can see the competition for land between the high-rise buildings and the freeways. Every square meter seems to be covered with one or the other.

My hotel is in Kowloon, and the freeway exit dropped us into the heart of the Produce Market. Loading and unloading time at the produce market, pallets and pallets stacked much higher than my head, of cartons of fruits and veggies. Needless to say, traffic moved through at a snail pace but I got a good look.

Hotel is very centrally located, reasonably priced and catering to business people and events, in usual OAT fashion. Time for some shut-eye!

Lodging: The CityView Hotel, Hong Kong