8 Sep 11: Lascabanes to Montlauzan

Route: Lascabanes to Montlauzan via Montcuq   (16 km)

More crushed limestone farm roads rising to the ridge with Montcuq. This town was the next destination for most at Les Mathieux, and last night’s through-hikers will skip it in order to reach Lauzerte tonight. These people are walking 10km more a day than I am. But the faint morning mist finally became heavy enough that I broke out the hat, pack cover, and poncho. And I have yet to figure out how to squat behind a bush and keep everything dry while wearing rain gear. So I did stop. Found earplugs and sunglasses (yup, lost those Raybans yesterday) at the pharmacy. Had an early lunch at a cafe in hopes the rain will pass on over. So I’m grateful for the respite. One of the pilgrim practices is to be grateful for what one has rather than bemoaning what one doesn’t. I must admit this is difficult after a sleepless night and a rainy morning. The splendid Greek salad for lunch was a real help. In the afternoon, passed an enormous (100+acres) horse farm; entry had elaborate ironwork gates. Someone is pouring a ton of money in this place! Later I came across some irregular waymarks that led me back around in a 1km circle. Some joke. The next group, Dutch, helped sort it out. Long dry afternoon.

Lodging: Ancien Presbytere. This gite is in a hilltop town, splendid views over entire area, sunset and sunrise. A room to myself: priceless.

Cuisine: Dinner was not fancy but tasty chicken breast fillets in a fresh chunky tomato sauce, salad and cheese. Local wine from the vineyard down the hill. Slices of pear tart from the patisserie.

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