23 Sep 10: Grealou to Cajarc

Route: 10.8 km with 700 ft descent

Tour: The countryside is much flatter now, the air heavy with humidity from yesterday’s heat, and today’s forecast is rain. The road is gently undulating, some is stoney, much is crushed-gravel farm road. An old dolmen had started to collapse, and was shored up solid with sandbags and fenced off for safety. The views alternated between small pastures and woods of oak and boxwood – the wonderful fragrance of boxwood on a warm day! Pleasant, good for reflection and contemplation, and utterly forgettable. As is the town of Cajarc. Word is that one can reach Cahors in two long days of walking along the banks of the Lot from here, with a bus running periodically to serve as a sag-wagon. Around this town are prominent limestone bluffs, so shear they look very much like castle walls. It is a good thing this was planned as a short day, as the weatherman delivers thunderstorms and downpours all afternoon and evening, with much lightning. I pray for those who are caught out in this storm.

Lodging: HR La Peyrade

Cuisine: A robust German breakfast (yogurt, muesli, cheese, hard boiled eggs) at the gite. Lunch in Cajarc at L’Presidente, managed to get moules frites, one of my favorite dishes from Normandy! Alas, they turned out to be not as tasty as the menu du jour (note to self: it never is). The evening meal (demi-pension at hotel) was this week’s entry in the “worst meal in France” contest: salad, frites, and deep-fried duck confit. I did not think it was possible to do anything to make duck confit taste bad, but this cook managed the job. The accommodations were quite good (clean, spacious, recent construction), location was not bad (3 blocks from town center with a nice view), but the food is not recommendable.

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One response to “23 Sep 10: Grealou to Cajarc

  1. The dolmen you refer to is not starting to collapse. It has been standing there for circa 5000 years and will be there for a long time yet. The “sandbags” you saw are only temporarily stored there and give a wrong (and bad) impression of the site.

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