Tour: I started out rigged for rain, due to the continuous showers, but it promises to fair off and turn cooler midday. Underway at 8:35, and I arrive at St Jean 11:15 after covering 10 km — this is almost 4 kph! My usual rate of progress is 3 kph – mornings really are my best time. The afternoon route is stonier, and harder on the feet. Small farms, old walls, limestone gravel. The woods are scrubby here, with creosoty stuff — the soil is porous here and doesn’t hold water well. After the second midday halt, the black cloud finally caught up with us and it rained until I reached the out skirts of Limogne.
Lodging: At Les Gloriettes, and Madame Marie our host is from Belgium. The house is a huge old affair with a large garden. There is no demi pension but kitchen priviledges are included and the grocery store is only 2 blocks away. My roommate is a Quebec woman I have been leapfrogging all day, so it made for a pleasant evening of chatting with the Quebecois (two men staying there too). Madame Marie is a colorful character. I tell her I have many friends I will send to visit her, and she responds, “Not so many. And only send good people, who are like you. If you send bad people, I will say I am Full already.” She gets group reservations starting many months in advance.
Cuisine: We ate at a good cafe around the corner for dinner. The starter was cream of mussels soup, in a large terrine that would have served two nicely. The main was cassoulet en Quercy (local version of a regional dish) with sausages, lamb, and chicken. Again, served in a large terrine that was way too much food for one person. Both dishes were very rich and filling, so I only managed to dent half the cassoulet. Dessert was sorbet (gelato perhaps) intensely flavored cassis and citron, a real memorable treat.