Underway at 7:30 in the dark; nothing is open here and I really want some coffee! This is the first time I’ve been early enough to need my headlamp, and after about 15 minutes the road is light enough, even in the forest, that I can switch it off. The roads in this area are a very pale, Sandy orange.
The next town, Ages, is just an hour down the road. I’m enjoying my coffee and tortilla when a breathless gent pops his head in the door and asks if I speak English. Turns out, a group of Vietnam Vets are taking a scroll with the names of 400 of their fallen brothers to Santiago, and they want their pictures taken. Of course I am happy to oblige. And I’ll put them in touch with Peace Trees Viet Nam.
After Ages and another hour comes Atapuerca. Near here are caves, used for a millennium by hermits, and monks, and occasionally, in bad weather, pilgrims. It’s possible to stay over an extra night in Ages and book a guided tour of the caves.
Past Atapuerca we come to The Daily Hill, which starts off gently enough, but fools us with hidden crests and yet more climb. The route swings north of the local military reservation, and we can hear the irregular pop-pop-pop of a firing range. Near the actual crest the route is terribly stony —not very steep but very tough and irregular footing. At the top, someone has erected a 3-meter cross, just to reassure us the climbing part is over. The descent is nearly as stony.
After coming off the limestone massif, a couple hours road March brings us to the hamlet of Cardeñuela Riopico. The “Rio” is more a creek.
Lodging is clean, modern, new construction with only 5 beds in my room plus our own toilet and shower. Very civilized! The pilgrim menu dinner included chicken braised in a saffron broth: delicious and now added to my “learn to make it” list.
Lodging: Alburgue Santa Fe, Cardeñuela Riopico
Kitsambler's Journeys 
This is a day that sounded quite grueling! You continue to amaze me with all the required planning ! Will think of you at the Grace retreat today.