18 Sep 2023: Pamplona

This is the city where they run the bulls every year — in June I think. Quite a few shops would be happy to outfit you in bull-running costume (white top and trousers, red sash). Only about an hour’s walk from Burlada, past the old Citadel, so we toured the old town center, found our Alburgue to get checked in, and went looking for lunch.

Lunch on the Camino comes in two major forms: the menu peregrino and the menu del dia. The former runs to “cheap and filling”, emphasis on fries. The latter was started by Franco as a mechanism to ensure workers got a good meal at least once a day. It runs to “local and better quality “ at about 3€ more. I had peppers stuffed with baby eels, chicken thighs in a cider gravy, and flan for dessert. It was enough food for two meals!

Some shopping, errands, and laundry filled our afternoon. Dinner only needed a snack: a few tapas.

Based on the experience so far, I’m shortening my daily plans. There are just more hills, and less enjoyment, than I envisioned. From 17-21km I’m shortening to 10-12. So I might not reach Leon. It is what it is.

Lodging: Alburgue Plaza Cathedral

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