23 Sep 2023: Los Arcos

The problem with the municipal dorms and their larger rooms is that quite a few rise at 5:30 to be underway at 6. Mind you, sunrise is not until 8! So they are walking in the dark. And they use headlamps and flashlights indiscriminately as they make their preparations — very annoying.

Underway at 8 this morning, to a beautiful roseate sky and continuing autumnal temperatures. It is a long day ahead.

I wanted to see the wine fountain at Irache; it’s a famous landmark on the Camino. Took just a swig — much too early for more — and continued up the hill.

By late morning I reached Azqueta, which has a very pleasant bar and terrace. Just as the route leaves town, I spot a Korean lady I’ve been leapfrogging with. She’s found the bus stop! And since it is 2 km more climb, to be followed by 12 of shade-less descent, I join her. By the time the bus arrives (there is great service in northern Spain, even on weekends) a half hour later, there are six of us. The bus is full.

From the bus, I can see that descent the route takes. It’s notorious. One of the ladies at dinner last night later limped into town, having blown out her knee.

Los Arcos has a lovely plaza with bar just by the cathedral, so I relaxed there for the afternoon, watching friends from previous days pass by. The sangria was excellent and so was the book.

When I checked into my lodging, I discovered the Knee and her friend were here as well. After a chat with the medics, who actually made a house call, the friend went shopping while I foraged for takeout. Turns out, “friend who can’t walk” will allow you to order takeout pizza. Very satisfying! They plan to take a taxi in the morning; doctors orders are for three days rest.

Lodging: Pension Ostandar, Los Arcos