Distance: 7 km High temperature 78F
SJMM is a former silk manufacturing center, now artist colony, sitting at the bottom of a very narrow stream-carved valley. The town has several restaurants, a couple groceries, and a tourism office.
Underway at 0930, but lost time hunting for a bank: the post office has an ATM but does not open until 1015.
The initial climb, from creek bottom at 590m to the first bluff at 670m, is quite steep along an old wagon track (I pity the horses). But it offers wonderful views looking eastward across the SJMM gulch to the Rhône valley beyond.
The climb continues over an unpaved farm road across rolling upland pastures with a few interested cows. It is a fine day for walking: clear, sunny, a crisp autumn day, with a breeze strong enough to blow my hat (thank-you, inventor of the chinstrap). We descend a bit to the tiny hamlet of Lamponey (716m) which shows signs of previous glory: large buildings, stone walls standing, roofs long since dissolved.
Then following the contour line to the crossroads at Col du Banchett (678m), and continuing down the roughly-graveled farm road to Bourg-Argental (550m).
This is a large town, the biggest since Condrieu. A municipal campground is on the left, entering town. The main street has a bank and several restaurants and bakeries, along with quite a bit of traffic. There is bus service to Saint-Ettiene several times daily; from there rail connections to Lyon and Le Puy.
Near the gite is a cluster of bars and cafes with outdoor seating. However each establishment has its own chairs and tables, and one must sit in the proper spot. Lunch was at one of these, Freikot, which I learned after the fact has a splendid assortment of Belgian fried things-on-skewers, accompanied by Belgian fries. And Belgian beer. All of which I missed out on, because the daily special board promised a composed salad with tuna. Which was quite tasty, I must admit.
(Sorry, photo editing on the road is a bit limited. Also apologies for so few food photos; when I’m eating Demi-pension, it’s a bit awkward taking pictures of food in private homes.)
Lodging. L’isba de la Tortue. This is a brand-new gite, very conveniently located (close to the Belgian and the bank, as well as bakeries). The house itself is older of course, and the character has been preserved. Those of you familiar with my own house-renovation saga will appreciate the sort of memories elicited here. M. is friendly, a hiker herself, and speaks some English and German.