Distance 12 km High temperature 73F
After a lovely breakfast – including ham and eggs in consideration of my diet – we are underway about 0915. I say “we” because Madame is escorting me as far as the pass. This is an old footpath, with stone walls dating to the 1800’s but now sagging a bit in disrepair. After 1.5 km I rejoin the GR65, about 0.5 km before Le Buisson. We have a high thin overcast, but it is due to be dry today. A bit humid however.
This whole area is a spiderweb of the GR65, various marked local and regional routes, some for horses and others for bicycles. The IPhiGéNie app is invaluable for choosing your actual way. Ever since crossing the Rhône, the GR 65 route markings have been excellent: frequent, large, well placed and freshly painted. Sometimes even stickered. Also the blue and gold CSJ markings are often seen; they focus on the through-route rather than the scenic one.
All morning I flirt with the 500m contour line, until midday after Pourzin when the climb starts, topping out at St Blandin (695m) before descending, sometimes steeply, into Saint-Julien-Molin-Molette.
Although most of the day is on farm roads, paved or not, some stretches are on the stony, eroded, old footpaths. After Pourzin, the orchards of espaliered apples give way to pastures lined with chestnut trees. And views!
It was during a noon pause under one such leafy chestnut that I met an eastbound walker. These are exceedingly rare. Turns out she was walking from Barcelona to her home in Konstanz. And she said the eastbound route markings were perfectly satisfactory. True to form, the three German women from Lake Constance that I met yesterday were well ahead of me – she had run into them this morning.
My lodging tonight is in a private home, one of the pilgrim association friends. M&M were themselves pilgrims in 2009, and they enjoy sharing their home.
After an aperitif of pastis, and a huge plate of salad from her garden, the main was something I’ve never had before: stuffed eggplant. Related to a stuffed pepper, with which I am familiar. Very tasty! And a cheese plate to conclude. Wonderful tri-lingual conversation over dinner.