Distance (on foot): 12 km Descent: 190m total Climb: 130m Total
It was a good night’s sleep, regardless of the Berlin woman who returned to her neighboring room at 11 pm, making all sorts of racket and knocking on my door (I didn’t answer). Three short blocks to the main square and the Pfarrkirche (parish church) of St Martin (that would be “of Tours”, I think, rather than “of Luther”), where I was finally able to get the first Pilgerstempel (pilgrim stamp) in my credential. A large, high Baroque sanctuary and a good place to start my day. An even better place was the next block over, the Cafe-Konditorei Haug, where I had three different rolls with butter and jam, a cup of coffee and a soft-boiled egg for SFR 14 (the Swiss franc is almost on par with the U.S. Dollar this week). Lovely setting, white linen and fresh roses on the tables, and excellent service. Open for lunch and early dinner as well; very highly recommended.
A few blocks onward, as the route started to work its way out of town center, a small grocery allowed me to restock cold cuts and cheese. Then as we wend our way through suburbs, the route passes a small shrine to St Francis, and out of town to gardens and fields. In the course of the day we pass about a half dozen of these chapels, some quite small and others much larger.
Entering Brunnen, I pass the Ingebohl Abbey; quite an enormous place (8 stories) and still very much a going concern. I should have planned to stay there tonight, and explore the Brunnen area; the scenery is just super (one runs out of adjectives after awhile, sorry).
From Brunnen the plan was to take the lake steamer to Buochs; however only the 9:15 run stops there. So I took the steamer to Breckenreid and continued by bus to Buochs. I could have stayed on the bus to reach Stans.
It’s time to discuss the Swiss theory of routing the Jakobsweg. Every country so far has had a distinctly different approach, and the Swiss are not to be outdone. Now, you’re in Switzerland for the scenery, right? And it is an indisputable fact that the very best observation point for scenery is from high up. So, Ms. Pulgrim, we are going to make you climb hills. Many hills. You will thank us later, I am sure.
The view really was good; just wish I hadn’t had to work so hard to see it. Also I’m finding, despite the quite cool mornings, the afternoons are really warm still and there is no shade to speak of. So I’m going through twice as much water as planned. This afternoon one saintly farmer made water available, so I got another liter. Tomorrow I’ll try refilling at midday.
Tonight my lodging is the Hotel Stans-Süd which is a business hotel on the main highway a mile back in the direction of Buochs. I bussed here from the Stans town center and I’ll bus back there in the morning, to pick up the route again. Modern, spacious, private room, en suite bath, and the bus garage on the ground floor won’t wake me up in the middle of the night. Perfect.
Dinner (remember dinner? You know, that meal I haven’t eaten since Saturday night. And today is Wednesday) was a five minute walk across the Autobahn to Gasthaus Allmendhuisli. It was a pleasant walk across broad sidewalks, but it was a walk nevertheless. This was a perfectly acceptable bistro, with outdoor terrace seating. A nice large mixed salad led off. The Swiss do a much better job of salads than the Germans do.
Restaurant Allmendhuisli, Enetbürgerstrasse 5, 6370 Stans, +41 (0)41 610 12 37
Kloster Ingenbohl, Klosterstrasse 10, 6440 Brunnun, +41 (0) 41 825 20 00 , Haus.maria-theresia@kloster-Ingebohl. Ch