29 May: Ravensburg

Distance: 6 km by trail (3 km by road)
Elev: 115m up, 130m down, -15m net

The predicted rain has come overnight and has not yet moved through. So I decided some quiet time in the Basilica might be in order. Turns out, this is a very famous place, a site of pilgrimage in its own right. The altar is a reliquary containing the Relic of the Holy Blood.

There is a screen formerly between the nave and the choir, now relocated to the altar for “liturgical reasons”. Look closely – you can enlarge the image by clicking on it – it’s done in a perspectivist style. Even though the screen itself is flat, the images give the appearance of depth.

The side chapel is equally beautiful.

My timing is exquisite; two weeks ago on Ascension, they held a procession with the relic – 20,000 people and 3,000 horses. It would have been splendid to see, but impossible to find a hotel room.

It’s still raining, but the cafes are serving lunch, which seems a good strategy for waiting out the weather. After wandering through the weekly market, I find myself a
at the museum cafe for the Kornhaus. That worked nicely, and the rain had stopped when I came out.

I would be tempted to classify the day’s march as a “gratuitous hill”, except that the walk was so pretty, I think I will let the hiking association off the hook. But it was a steep and steady climb up. The forested ridge had seen some logging, but not enough to chew up the roadbed. And I came down through pretty suburban gardens into Ravensburg. A nice two hour walk.

Dining. The Kornhaus museum cafe is mostly for drinks, but has a small lunch menu as well as a small dinner menu. I had the Gorgonzola-filled pasta with a side salad, which was very nice. The peppermint tea came in a double-walled Lexan cup (I want one of these!). When I asked for more hot water, I was told with a frown that what I wanted was another tea. At 2€70 for a cup, I think that is a bit steep.

Dinner at my hotel was light: a Wurst-salat (julienned cold curs with thinly sliced red onion, pickles, and peppers, dressed with oil and vinegar) with a side of Bratkartoffeln (chunky home fries). Good stuff!

Lodging. I am at the Hotel Storchen in Ravensburg, which is directly on the Jakobsweg route and very near the old part of town. The room is not large, but very comfortable. Wifi is free.

– Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone


3 responses to “29 May: Ravensburg

  1. Weren’t we in Ravensburg on river ride? So much food in your photos!

  2. Julie Shryock

    My cousin, Christian Steltz, is a professor at the University in Regensburg. Thank you for a glimpse into his city.

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