Distance: 13.5 km (incl deviation from Bergatreute)
Elev: 90m up, 205m down, -115m net
Well, that was an interesting morning. “Interesting” in the way my Mother used the word. An hour’s march from Bergatreute along a country byway brought me back to the Jakobsweg route. These are some tiny farm hamlets, not particularly well-heeled. But in almost every town, regardless of size, for the entire trip this year, there has been evidence of construction: either obviously new construction, or major renovation of an older building, or replastering the church, or something. Then we went into the woods, which proceeded idyllically for an hour.
I had been seeing signs of timbering activity much of the morning, and finally I caught up with the loggers. It’s not that I mind the logging so much; in Germany they work in small sections, and harvest individual trees rather than mowing down great swathes as we do in the US. Rather the problem is those infernal tractors, and the unholy mess they make of the trails, churning them to a squishy bog.
More boggy forest path, and finally we emerged from the woods to find a beautiful valley view.
Dining. After the small dinner last night, I am ready for a solid meal from the hotel dining room, and the solidity does not disappoint. First a hearty soup, ground meat in a rich broth. Next a mixed salad plate with a familiar assortment. The main course was a pork steak (double-wide chop) pan-fried, topped with something involving mustard, and a “Bearnaise” sauce that was originally the pan gravy, I do believe. Accompanying were some potatoes au gratin, sturdy enough for building material. I wasn’t going to leave that table hungry!
Lodging. I am at the Hotel-Gasthof Bären, a family-run place a block further along the route from the Basilica. Friendly staff, rooms modern and comfortable. Wifi is free but uses some sort of SMS authentication that I cannot get to work. (So I’m afraid my readers must wait a day ; I generally get a wifi connection at least every other day.)
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