22 May: Ulm (Rest Day)

Distance: nil
Elev: nil

At last, a rest day! I’m always tempted on these (rest days on previous trips were in Conques and Moissac) to try to cover a lot of ground on foot, seeing the sights. Which is, of course, not the purpose of a rest day! So I was not too disappointed when the weather turned ten degrees colder, with wind and some showers. However I was cold. I had not packed for a low of 35 and a high of 45, which is planned to continue into next week. And I see it is snowing in Switzerland. So, since the local equivalent of REI is right across the street, I went shopping. My trophy from Ulm is: a black micro fleece cardigan. Yes, I already have at least one of those-but not with me. And it was much less expensive than the long sleeved merino pullover. With the micro fleece and my rain shell and the silk long johns (and usual shirt and trousers), I was moderately comfortable. Now, this is the end of the third week of May, mind you – unseasonably cool but it is what it is.

Meanwhile back at the ranch I decided that I really needed heat in the hotel room. Front desk said “two hours”. Five minutes later A-gang (navy-speak, not German) knocks on my door. After some twiddling and fiddling, he comes to the same conclusion I had: an air lock in the radiator pipe (everyone uses hot water radiators here). Fix in place, I head off to the Munster for the noon organ concert. On the way -ta dah!! – I see my first Doberman in Germany. As some of you know, my household is owned by a Doberman. Anyhow, this old girl with gray on her muzzle and some stiffness in her hips was walking with Grandma very nicely. I wished we had time to get acquainted. (The Germans always look at me funny, that I’m greeting the dog before I greet the human.) Also on my way, I passed a hat store. Honestly, a hat store! When was the last time you saw one of those?

Also a study in the contrasts that abound in this city: the Rathaus and the new library.

The Munster has a new organ, and the daily noon concerts are helping to pay the bill.

This is some church. The altar and choir end date from the 1300’s but they didn’t finish the nave until the 1870’s. The neo-gothic stonework in the nave is breathtakingly delicate.

Although the glass in the north windows is plain, there is stained glass in the south windows in modern designs with interesting colors.

Dad was stationed here in the early 1950’s, and last visited in the late 1960’s. I went hunting for a restaurant he remembered, in the remaining Medieval section of town, called the Fishers Quarter. The hunt was successful, and the lunch of seafood stew on saffron rice was an absolute delight.

Other than that -a rest day, like I said!

(PS: Thanks to all you commenters; I am grateful for the correspondence even if I don’t post the personal notes onto the blog.)
– Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone


7 responses to “22 May: Ulm (Rest Day)

  1. Sounds like the rest day was a huge success in most ways, even if not in getting that much rest. But your town ramblings were nicely described & your Dad’s restaurant still being in operation was so surprising and heartwarming. Lois Gray

  2. So cool that you got to eat where your dad ate “back in the day.” What a great connection. Love the hats!

  3. I too like rest days. Wonderful looking food.

  4. I have to admit that this post is the best- mainly the connection between your dad and the restaurant after so many years! Even the best of restaurants in the US rarely last that long. Sounds like you are about halfway through…Enjoy!

  5. I LOVE THIS POST! The hats–so cool. And the restaurant that your dad remembered–so touching. Thank you!

  6. barb mcallister

    Really enjoying following your journey!

  7. Figured as much — I do really appreciate both commentary and pictures, tho!! j

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