21 May: Ulm

Distance: 11 km (+ train from Thalfingen to Ulm)
Elev: 45m up, 95m down, -50m net

It never fails: those lodgings that disappoint in the evening manage to redeem themselves in the morning. Maybe it’s the different crew; but I’ve seen it happen several times now. At any rate, breakfast always improves my disposition.


Since the Gasthof was already on the edge of town, getting launched in the morning was easy. The only complicating factor was the traffic circle and the morning commute. Patience, pilgrim! (gee, that would make a good blog title …)

Often when the route is crossing farmland, there are no hard structures to hand the way marks on. Usually I am left to fend for myself at these spots; but today, Frau Waymarker has an assistant! I had seen some of these once or twice before, but never in combination.


Yesterday I had seen something unusual in the fields, where I think it was corn just starting to come up. Some electric fencing, of the sort used for horses and cows – not any of those in sight of course – and running about knee-high. Finally I decided the farmer was trying to keep something out rather than in. Rabbits, perhaps? Sure enough, this morning I spotted more of the clever rascals. These guys are big – would serve six at dinner – and fast – I think a coyote or deer could not keep up.


As the rainclouds were closing in, and the route descended to the Danube, I decided to take the suburban train the last 6km into Ulm. This was a smart move, as Ulm differs from Nürnberg in some important ways for the walker: the Tourist Office is quite a distance from the train station (it’s by the Ulmer Munster), and there are few lodgings priced for walkers nearby – so I had to go a bit further. In short, there was quite a bit of walking left to be done once I left the train!


Dining. After a surfeit of schnitzel and spaetzle, I was ready for a change. Besitos, near the Munster, had a wonderful assortment of tapas, and a menu in English was available. Highly recommended.
Lodging. The Tourist Office booked me into the Donau Hotel, across the Danube in New Ulm but only a ten-minute walk from the Munster. Nearer places in my price range were already booked up. This is a family operated place, on a “real people live here, not tourists” street. Free wifi, and breakfast is included. The room is functional, modestly comfortable, and clean.
– Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

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3 responses to “21 May: Ulm

  1. Thank you for all of your reports. I enjoy walking Long with you

  2. Claudia Anderson

    Your posts are giving me enormous pleasure. And filling me with an unexpected longing. Bill and I lived in Frankfurt for close to seven years (no, not part of the military). It’s where our children were born. There’ll be much to talk about on your return. In the meantime, Kitsambler’s Blog is my new addiction. THANK YOU! Claudia

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