Distance: 15 km
Net elev: -75m
Of course, to go downhill one must first go uphill, 65m to Giesenberg. It was a pleasant morning, walking over the first ridge, down into Igelsbach (bach = brook) and then uphill again, through blooming apple orchards and woods. Every town has a dairy barn, complete with resident moo-ers, but I guess it’s not yet time to turn the girls out to pasture. Horses I have seen outside, and goats and chickens, but no cows. Backyard Chickens seem to be suddenly popular, as I don’t recall seeing quite so many last year.
Immediately following the midday halt, the lowering clouds of a squall line caught me. Even though I am very happy with the new raincoat, I sheltered in a wood for a half hour until the wind died down. The rain continued to let up as I slogged through the afternoon.
The Jakobsweg track has been re-routed a bit from the recent past, forgoing the bike path for a wooded path along the crest of a ridge. Turns out, this is not just any ridge.
The Romans were here. Yes, those Romans. This ridge marked the northernmost Roman intrusion into Germania. It was appropriately fortified, not unlike Hadrian’s Wall in Britain. However, instead of a 15 ft wall to keep the Scots out, this had a 3 ft wall to serve as a border demarcation, and a series of watchtowers and blockhouses to monitor the cross-border trade. Fascinating stuff!
As it turns out, today is the same major holiday as in the US: Happy Mutterstag!
Dining. Since my lodgings did not offer dinner tonight (I’m always cautious about Sunday meals), I was directed across the street to the Gasthof Krone, which had regional specialties. There was a lovely pork bullion, followed by sauerbraten with pretzel dumplings. Very personal service and highly recommended.
Lodging. Gasthof Arnold allowed me to reserve by email. The room is on the small side but very clean and quite acceptable. Free wifi. The only problem is, with the rerouting of the Jakobsweg, they are no longer directly on the track. One must turn north about 300m once you come past the cemetery. (Yes, it was an unexpected pain to have to go hunting for them.)
– Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone