Rummelsberg seems to be right on the edge of the greater Nürnberg area: except for a bit of logging road early on, today’s route has been all suburban, small town, or city or county parks. So, no wide, expansive vistas or broad panoramas; just the closed-in view of woods or houses. This part of Germany was once an inland sea, so the soil is quite sandy and it really resembles the sand hills section of the Carolinas. It is Sunday morning, and many people are out, walking or jogging or bicycling or dogging.
The last few km lie along the King Ludwig Canal, built during the heyday of infrastructure development before the railroads came along, just like the Erie Canal in the US, which it resembles. Unlike the Canal du Midi in France, the houseboat lobby has not got their oar in the water, so to speak, so the locks are not functioning and there is no water traffic, apart from the stray water lily.
Unlike the situation with walking in France in September, there is no need for a cellphone for calling ahead for lodging reservations. Almost invariably I am the sole lodger. If anything, one would call to see whether the establishment is open at all – many seem to be taking vacation during this timeframe. And so the pension here is closed, and I am in the hotel instead.
I am stopping here so as to take advantage of the smaller towns, rather than spending several days in the big city of Nürmburg. Lunch was at the first gasthaus I came to. This is Sunday, as I mentioned, and the tradition of “Sunday dinner” is big here; since I had to picnic for last night’s dinner as well as my breakfast this morning, this seems a reasonable compensation. Oh my – what a delight! Pan-fried filet of fish, swimming in lemon butter sauce (there is no German word for “lightly sauced”), potatoes with bits of bacon, and fresh broccoli.
Dinner was at the hotel, and they had some seasonal asparagus specials on the menu still. So I had fresh spaetzle with asparagus and fresh herbs. Yummy!