Yes, this is a short day,mostly because tomorrow will be 18.5 km (no towns with lodging in-between) and I’m still walking myself back into condition.
The day started with a short climb around the shoulders of the Wildstein mountain, then dropped rapidly downhill through forest to a hamlet. From there it was fields and meadows over the crest of the next hill. Just as the Eskimos have 13 different words for “snow”, German has many words for path: sandy-path, graveled-path, finely-graveled-path, concreted-path, field-path, meadow-path, forest-path, grass-path and I could go on. This is still early in the season so the grass-paths have not yet been well-trodden.
At the foot of the hill is a small St Jacob’s chapel, and – wonder of wonders – it is open! And has a pilgrim-stamp (my first church stamp since Prague) along with a logbook. Reading the recent entries, there is a pair walking two days ahead, and a singleton three days ahead. So this is still a lightly trafficked time.
I do not spot the brewery in Fuchsburg as I pass through, although I have been drinking their beer for two days now. As I arrive in Teunz, I am able to find the postmistress and ship home a pound of Czech things.
This is well-watered country, and I take it from the town coat of arms that there was a mill here (it must be a mill wheel – why would a town put a torture instrument on their coat of arms?). I see active construction and re-stuccoing in progress. And the parish church in 2003 erected monuments to the fallen from the two world wars. The missing are included as a separate category, which I find interesting especially after last night’s story.
At my gasthaus tonight I encounter what is becoming a depressingly familiar situation: no wi-fi access. Oh there is wi-fi, all right (I can almost always detect a network) but the absent son (or daughter) set it up and the owners have no idea of the password. Ugh.
At least they are here, and open, so I have a comfortable place to sleep and a simple meal. Pilgrims are grateful to receive.