We had rain last night, a hard rain; this came as no surprise since it had been threatening all afternoon. This morning dawned still overcast, and the weather report said “30% chance of rain”, meaning of course I have a 100% chance of getting wet. Heading uphill out of Teunz, I discovered what an utter nuisance these lightly trodden grass paths are, after they get wet. I rigged the gaiters and was grateful for the Goretex boots. A little later the threat of rain became an actuality, and I took refuge in a bus shelter whilst wrestling on the poncho (bus shelter #1 of 3 for the day). I’m beginning to think much more favorably toward those hiking raincoats (poncho with sleeves) from Altus, actually.
This is farm country; little villages with hog houses and a few veal calves, big manure piles and fields of corn and grain. The route today has been mostly farm roads, with only short stretches in the woods. The woods have wet grass but shelter from the wind; the more open roads are drier but more exposed.
This is one of those days I am so grateful to have the gps track information (shows route on a scalable topo map with current location, along with all other trails and roads in the area). For one thing, there’s a loop to Guteneck, the skipping of which cuts off 2.5 km. And as I make my noon halt at a hamlet bus shelter (#2) in Dürnersdorf I see a sign saying “Altendorf 5 km” by road. Given the continuing certainty of rain and wind, I think I can endure a road-shoulder march for the afternoon. Fortunately shelter #3 presented itself simultaneously with the next squall line.
I arrived at the gasthaus during lunch still, so naturally I had to wait a bit for the room. Meanwhile a table of local people was finishing their meal. They had a 9 year old German short haired pointer, Ben, with them – and everyone was very friendly. Ben appreciated getting his ears scratched and chest rubbed.
Dinner was a real treat. There was no menu; instead the chef came out and asked me what I wanted. It still being the season for white asparagus, that’s what I selected. I think Julia Child must have been working in that kitchen: white asparagus sautéed in butter, topped by Hollandaise sauce made with butter, Weiner schnitzel of pork medallions prepared in butter, and potatoes pan fried in … Butter! With a German mixed salad beforehand and some Riesling to wash it all down. A terrific meal!