The additional bad news about my hotel was no breakfast, which means also no lunch (I take along the surplus for my daily picnic). Since the guidebook promised a grocery in the next town, only 4 km, I was not terribly concerned. So I noshed on a Clif Bar and some apricots and walnuts from the emergency provisions. No grocery materialized, of course. That’s why I always carry extra rations.
After crossing the Berounka via a highway bridge, the first hour’s walk was an asphalt climb, along a twisting, heavily trafficked road with no sidewalk or footpath. So there were times when I just cuddled up to the guardrail. The second hour was even more adventurous, a footpath up and then along the spine of a slate ridge. The views down into the valley were terrific, but with a steep drop-off on either side and a poorly marked track of native rock underfoot, I focused my attention on keeping my feet under me. Then I had to crawl over and under several downed trees lying across the path: this bit was a real obstacle course! Afterwards things calmed down some, climbing and descending a ridge in another nature reserve. Then along a roadway next to the Berounka. I saw my first backpack today – on a Czech guy heading the other direction. Also a couple bicycle tourers, on this roadway.
The last half mile into town this afternoon was somewhat misdirected, so there was a scramble through an apple orchard (blooming! Bees!) and then a bushwhack across a meadow, complete with deer who were clearly wondering what I was doing there – and so was I! Fortunately, the pension was well-signed, was open for business, and had a teenaged son in the household to translate. Bed with bath down the hall, USD 10 and they promise me breakfast too! Dinner (USD 5) was a luxurious beef goulash, served with those big-as-softballs, lighter-than-air bread dumplings. Actually I’m not quite sure how the Czechs do it: these things are more like a steamed yeast roll than the sturdy and sometimes leaden “dumplings” that Americans know.
You can see the height profile for these two days in the image below, from the route guide prepared by the German pilgrim association. Figures on the left are vertical meters.
Lodging: Penzion Trilobit
Address: Skryje 48, Skryje, 27042
Phone: 313 553 042 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
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