This region is rough terrain, enough that I need to adjust my daily distance planning to something less than 18 km, and then there is the matter of finding a town with lodging. So I am shortening today’s stage by starting with a bus section.
It was a sparkling clear day when I awoke, but chilly (high 30s). The Czechs have turned off their central heat for the season, and I was very envious of the down jackets being worn in the breakfast room. By late afternoon it had warmed up to the low 60s, and the next few days should be warmer still, so I will have the chance to thaw out.
My guardian angel turned up wearing red hair today, at the bus center. This is a large lot with at least three bus lines and a dozen different bus stop markers spread around. Half an hour of waiting for the right bus beats 15 minutes for the wrong one, I always say. Frau Angel steered me safely onto the right bus for Nižbor (always helps to have a little map and the printed destination so you can point). The ride was 15 minutes. She made sure I debarked, too!
A steep climb up out of the Berounka valley (penance for the bus hop?) led to an old cloister church, now converted to a museum of Celtic culture. Then along the ridge top with panoramic views. Through forest to an area with vacation cabins (similar to those in state parks), and more forest. I have spent lots of time in nature preserves these past two days – just lovely forest scapes. Other tracks cross occasionally, and I could wish for clearer markings at these junctions. Twice. And sometimes the gps track needs me to be a little separate to know I’ve gone astray. As a general rule I have not had concern for my personal safety on these pilgrimage walks, but today when I was passed by two (young male) mushroom pickers out in the deep forest, the thought did cross my mind. Fortunately they had other quarry.
My hotel tonight was a good news – bad news affair. The good news is that it was right on the walking route, a private room with shower was only USD 20, and the restaurant was attached. Alas, they had no heat in the room.
Lodging: Hotel Roztoky
Address: Roztoky u Křivoklátu, 270 23
Phone: 0042-0607-854425 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org