The longest day yet, the hottest, and 3 big hills to climb. Beautiful views of the Pyrenees front from the ridges, and a healthy dose of shade periodically. Still, I am glad I sent the small sack with 2 kg on ahead. Foot pain is manageable with a double dose of ibuprofen. There is a big old Cistercian abbey at Sauvelade. At Navarrenx, there was a very nice reception for pilgrims at the church, complete with aperitif. I met two Irish women from Cork who travelled all day to arrive here; they will walk 3 days and then return home. The Amis of St Jacques who put on the reception also sell me a French credential, as my US one is nearly full.
Lodging: CH Relais du Jacquet. The CH is a lovely old home right in the center of town that belonged to host’s mother, and he has been renovating it in stages.
Cuisine: Hallelujah, the dinner menu tonight has no duck! Starter was a cream of potato (and leek?) soup. Main was a pan-fried white fish (trout?) with a side of rice and shrimp. Salad greens vinagrette and cheese with fig preserve. Dessert was a sweet semolina pudding. All this prepared and served while he was also sorting out ongoing reservations for the remainder of the week; a cheerful, enthusiastic, generous and meticulous host. Well-located, highly recommended.